This is my first build on ppp. So far so good. I'm not gaming on this at all. It is for video editing and youtube videos. So I can't say how the gaming performance of this is (I'm sure you can find this somewhere else).
I plan on adding a custom loop later on because the triton can handle about 4.1 ghz on the 5960x. It will overheat at this point. The stock fans on the triton are loud (but can be manually adjusted via a small knob attached to the wire). The pump is very quiet and cannot be heard unless I lean next to it. The tubing is cheap and kinks very easily. At idle it keeps my processor 4 degrees C above ambient. Under load at stock speeds it keeps it at 60 degrees C. I've since replaced the stock fans on the triton with NF-F12's and its very quiet and not pwm controlled. The pump connector is very short i.e. you can never connect it to your motherboard header or any other without an extension. My biggest gripe about it is that the light always stays on. This is the only light in my system and because I often do renders that go through the night, it would be better if it had an off option. Still overall a good aio liquid cooler. the radiator is aluminum so I won't be reusing any of this for my future loop.
I bought the WD drives and samsung ssd before so I spent about $2400 on this build. The planned watercooling loop will be about $500.
Since my goal is silence, the graphics card works well (fans are off when idle) and the loudest parts are gonna be the hdds (can't do anything about that). right now the AC is louder than my computer (still not silent though). to remedy this I intend to fit two 360 rads in the h440, the front 360has to be thin and mounted with the intake/outlet on the bottom. The top should be fine too. I may need to do some small mods, but if my measurements are correct, it is possible. I will mount two hdds on the back of the hdd shroud (with industrial strength velcro: easy enough) and the last one at the bottom mounting spot. To reduce vibrations between the hdds, stock fans and the case I used some of the packing foam the motherboard shipped with and it seems to be working well enough. the noctuas do not need this of course. Right now I haven't overclocked this because I prefer the silence over the performance gains, but after I finish building, I intend to.
Cable management in the h440 is very easy due to the plethora of tie down points. However all the cables have to be very tight and close to the case so the foam doesn't get imprints in it. This case is about as small as I can go without sacrificing performance. The h440 has a lot of modding potential and my main complaint about it is the poor paint job (yes, it's paint not powder coat. it could also be really poor powder coat). Its not worth powder coating myself though. The top panel is very hard to lift off. So I'm leaving it loose until I'm done building. the front comes off easily. plastic side panel. nough said. maybe Ill add double pane glass to it in a few months.
I'm working on my loop as I get time. These are the parts that I plan on using:
reservoir: http://goo.gl/i2iqnA - $42.16 - microcenter top and front 360 rad: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006097HEC - $68.19/each - microcenter cpu block: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T01B54 - $54.11 - microcenter pump: mcp655 - $65.00 - ebay compressions: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NODEXYE fans: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00650P2ZC tubing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0Q55MC
I'm uncertain as to the quality of the slim rad, but im willing to take a gamble since I'm not on a time crunch anymore. Will update as I change stuff.
Update 1/23/2015 I added in a res by drilling a few holes (4th pic) and bought the top 360 rad. After remeasuring, its definitely possible to fit two 360s in this case. there is actually 70mm of space above the front radiator for the top rad and fans if you mount the radiator so it sits on the floor of the case. This way I could theoretically also put in a 80mm thick rad in the front without mods(no thanks). I also bent all the steel hook behind the drive bays so that they would not interfere with my hdds when I mount them.
Update 1/25/2015 I drilled some holes in the stealth cover for the hdd's (11th pic) and mounted them with some homemade drive trays (7th and 8th pic). I made the drive tray with an aluminum sheet and spray paint. The black is a different finish but I just had this color laying around. I also isolated the drives with rubber washers. One of my holes was off between the cage and hdd so I didn't screw it in. the holes in the case double as ssd mounts (ie they have the same spacing). If I do replace one of these with another ssd, its just more convenient. at this point all my cable management has fallen apart, but I'll fix it later. There is still enough space for the radiator between the drives and the back of the case (if I ghetto mount it).
Update 1/31/2015 One of the radiators I purchased was leaky so I'm running with one 360 rad in the front and an mcp655 vario. My immediate load temps went down 17°C compared to the triton (with nf-f12s). the idle temps are the same. I also added some new pics. Is is silent? no. Unfortunately not. Hard drives will always make noise. Under load, I can't hear it from 1 foot away over my AC or if any sound is playing from my phone at the same distance. Still work to be done on silence.
Update 2/3/2015 I added two pics of how the res was mounted upon request. Because I didn't measure this out when when drilling, one of the screws ended up preventing the side panel from sliding all the way in. I just filed away a bit of the panel and it's doing OK. I still haven't found the perfect case so this will havedo until I do. Maybe the silverstone tj11 if I get enough hardware to justify it. I also over clocked this finally. I think I received a worse overclocker because I only got it to 4.3 ghz at 1.35 volts. I will go for more if I find a good deal on another triple thick rad. Under full load it reaches 78 degrees after the temp equalizes. Still very quiet. When rendering 4k it gets to about 65 C. Idle temps are the same. Btw this processor chews through 4k withease. There is no lag when editing (this is a wonderful relief after my mobile cpu editing).
Update 2/8/2015 I overclocked a bit more. I'm now running at 4.409 Ghz with a 105BCLK and x42 multiplier. Core voltage is at 1.39 V. My ram is running at 2800 17,17,17,45 CR2. It's stable-ish. I will stress test tonight iA and see if there are any errors. Also updated temps. same Idle at 30ish C. 95C under load. However when renderering 4k it only gets to about 58C.
Update2/10/2015 RAM wasn't stable at 2800 so I'm running it at 2666 MHz 15,15,15,40 CR2 and reduced voltage. Since this is a 2400 MHz kit, its still over specification. BCLK=100 Multiplier=44 VCore=1.385 V. Temps are about the same.
Update 2/12/2015 Changed Vcore to 1.365. its stable and max temps are at about 85C. Under load the lowest core temp is 72C. I don't know if this disparity is just because of the massive die or improperly applied thermal compound. I can't seem to run it at 4.5 even with massive amounts of voltage (1.41V. you will need fast flow and massive radiators for this much voltage btw and I would not recommend stress testing it for longer than 20 minutes at this voltage. It gets really hot. like 95C always.) so I'm gonna stick with the lower, safer, stabler overclock. An interesting observation I had is that at any BCLK other than 100 the motherboard/cpu does not give accurate CPU power consumption readings. I did a GPU load test as well. at idle its around 40C and under load goes up to 70C after 20 minutes. Finally installed blender on this as well. Eats that nicely. Now I have to see if the investment was worth it. Will I actually be more productive?