UPDATE #3 @ 01-10-2017: Replaced my EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SC with an MSI GTX 1060 AERO ITX 3GB. Fits perfectly. GPU temps peak at 67C-70C depending on ambient, which has to be a testament to the design of the AERO ITX card - I'm impressed

UPDATE #2 @ 03-07-2017: Added RGB strip from Phanteks + side panel, made of acryllic, with 3mm perforation.

UPDATE #1 @ 31-05-2017: modded the PSU mount so that it is 15mm scooted towards the side panel. That makes space for a Big Shuriken 2 Rev. B., which keeps the i7-7700k a lot cooler than the C7 does.

Original build description @ 31-03-2017:

Step-by-step build log found here

Design imperatives:

  • Silent and efficient (need it on my desk)
  • Easy maintenance (positive pressure required)
  • Powerful database handling (that's where the "overkill" CPU comes in)
  • Easy to transport
  • Must provide >144hz framerates in DOTA2 and CSGO
  • Expansion options for storage


  • C7 backplate was conflicting with a few chips on the back on the Z270i, so I had to ghetto mod the backplate with a swiss army knife.
  • The TU100B is a thermal nightmare, so I modded it with 2x A9x14's in the bottom of the case, replaced the front intake fan with a ML120 Pro White, flipped the PSU (the SF600 never spins anyway with my low wattage system, so there's no counter-acting fan direction, and flipping the PSU moves the hot parts of it away from the CPU), undervolted my i7-7700K TO 1.07V vcore, enabled max cstates and speedstep, and disabled turbo. 4.2ghz @ 33-35C idle, 76-79C stress testing, and 70-75C in heavy workloads/gaming.
  • (See update #1) After having spent a lot of time calibrating the C7 as stated above, I realized that the main limitation of my system was my poor cooling solution. The solution was modding the case to allow installation of a Big Shuriken 2 Rev. B. It is significantly better than the C7: I now run stock CPU clock speeds with turbo on and RAM set to 3000 Mhz (wanted to do the XMP but after every hard off-switch, the system fails to post if I use XMP) and hitting 75C averages in OCCT testing. So there's even room for a little overclock if I wanted to, but it dips into the 80's so I'm perfectly happy as it is.

Very quiet profile now, nice low temps and speedstep/cstates work just lovely when idle.

Make sure you check out the epic TU100 Owner's thread on

Big shoutout to simmons (OCN), fer (OCN), Myrdahl (OCN) and really everone else at OCN who contributed to the thread. Also big shoutout to reddit user /u/stupidasian94 and PCPP user alixzibit

Part Reviews


Lovely chip. When undervolted to 1.07V vcore @ 4.2ghz (all cstates enabled, speedstep enabled and turbo off), this thing is cool enough for the C7 to take it easy RPM-wise. The system is 33-35C on idle with CPU fan set to 38%, which is nearly inaudible. I'm sure if I build a new system with a beefier cooler and better airflow, this thing will hit a nice overclock. I have faith in my silicon :)

CPU Cooler

Upgraded to the Big Shuriken 2 rev. b. after having used the Cryorig C7 in my TU100B. Went from having to disable turbo boost in order to stay under 80C in OCCT to now having boost enabled as well as RAM overclocked and hitting averages of 75C with momentary spikes into the low 80s. I couldn't be happier. Did require some modding of the case, but that's hardly a fault of the CPU cooler :). Tried "upgrading" the stock fan with he Noctua A12x15, but surprisingly the Noctua fans had worse thermal performance in this use-case than the stock Scythe fan, and acoustically there was a negligible difference between the two. Scythe really made a great product here, imo.

CPU Cooler

Does the job just fine, no more no less. I'm very happy about how the fan performs at <40% fan speeds, but above that it starts to get very noticable. To get 5 stars, Cryorig should've provided a non-proprietary fan, so mounting an alternative fan would be easy. I would prefer a A9x14 fan for this cooler. It's doable - you just have to mount it with zip-ties. But it's not a 5-star product if it REQUIRES modding to fulfill my wishes. Also, the backplate has conflicts with the ASUS Z270i motherboard, but I'm pretty sure that's the motherboard's fault.

EDIT: now replaced the C7 with the Big Shuriken 2 Rev. B. in my TU100B

Thermal Compound

This stuff is rock solid. Litterally. This paste was so dense, I'm surprised they managed to keep it liquid.


Great features, but a bit too much heatsink going on, in my opinion. Finding coolers that fit this motherboard is a pain, but if you stick to Noctua or companies that stay within the no-fly zone of the CPU, you'll be fine. The BIOS has great features too. For 5 stars, I would've liked to see 1) the chips on the bottom of the mobo to not conflict with CPU cooler backplate, as this requires modding, and 2) an additional fan header and/or 3) at least the option to PWM control the AIO_PUMP. I don't for the love of my life understand why there is no option to enable QFAN control of the AIO_PUMP header, so we can control the pressurization of our system without compromising sound profile (i.e. have intake fans on one header and exhausts on another), but whatever. Just beware: If you plug in fans on the AIO_PUMP header, it WILL run, but it will ONLY run at 100% speed. That's unbearably loud to me. You might be able to find a LNA or something along those lines, but I haven't tried any such route. I just y-split 2 times for my 3 case fans on the SYS_FAN header.

EDIT: I actually found the AIO_PUMP Q-Fan enabler in the Bios under "Advanced" --> "Monitor" --> "QFan control" --> "AIO_PUMP control" --> change from "Disabled" to "PWM". Hadn't thought of looking under monitoring settings, my bad I guess. Changing the AIO_PUMP to PWM-enabled caused my system not to POST because CPU_FAN all of a sudden wasn't recognized, but I'll fiddle around with it and revert the review back to 4 stars if the problem persists after fiddling with it.

EDIT2: So after fiddling around, the following worked out for me and got the system POST'ing: disable AIO_PUMP PWM --> reboot --> ENABLE AIO_PUMP PWM --> recalibrate fans using Q-Fan recalibration --> reboot --> disable AIO_PUMP PWM --> reboot --> enable AIO_PUMP PWM --> reboot. I guess it's some minor bug.

EDIT3: So, after having fiddled around a bit with using the XMP of my Corsair 16gb 3200 mhz DDR kit with 16-18-18-36 @ 1.35V, I've come to the conclusion that this motherboard simply can't run the OC'ed ram properly at their rated settings. The issue isn't stability or performance - in those aspects, the mobo handles the XMP well. The issue is that after every hard off-state (ie. turning off the power supply/wall switch), the system won't POST for 2-3 boots. On the 3rd boot, it resets the RAM speed to 2133mhz (or the default frequency of the RAM) and boots correctly. I've error-tested it and found that the issue is related to the voltage of the XMP. If I run the ram at a higher voltage, it is stable even after hard resets. I'm currently running it at 1.45V and experiencing no issues, either stability-wise or POST-wise, regardless of whether it's a hard or soft off-switch

EDIT4: With BIOS version 0808, which I installed on the 2nd of July, 2017, ASUS finally managed to fix the cold-booting error with RAM speeds >2400mhz. No more manual tweaking of RAM voltage, CPU System Agent and VCCIO. Thanks, ASUS, but seriously... why that long?

EDIT5: Having just looked over at all this **** I've been through with this board, I'm not actually sure I think this is a 4-star board. It might be worth 4 stars today with the latest BIOS, but considering the state it shipped it, it has been a 3-star experience at best for me. Too many stupid bugs and weird **** from ASUS .


No faults, does what it says on the box.

EDIT: I have confirmed with a seperate DDR4-kit that the post-hard-off-switch boot/POST-issue mentioned in my ASUS Z270i part review is NOT related to the RAM-kit but rather the mobo not being able to run the XMP profile at it's rated voltage.


Great value for money SATA SSD. Later on, I will be adding m.2 drives and clone the system from the SADA SSD to the M.2, or alternatively just reset my system on the M.2, but for now, this is a very good budget alternative. Plenty of space for a reasonable postgresql database and my two favourite games: CSGO and DOTA2.

Video Card

Absolutely astonished about this cards thermal performance in my TU100B. Basically hits the same or ever-so-slightly lower max temps comparet to the EVGA GTX 1050 TI SC it has replaced. Heaven loops maxes at 67C-70C depending on ambient temps, and gaming is pretty much the same. My only gripe with the card is the coil whine, but that's random AFAIK and I won't hold that against the product design. An extended burn-in test reduced the coil whine noticeably, but it's still there.


As I said previously for my CPU cooler, any product that requires modding to do something that is WELL within the scopes of reasonable use can't get 5 stars from me. And oh boy, does the TU100 need modding to perform REASONABLY well with midrange components. I modded the bottom of the case for mounting of 2x Noctua A9x14's for air intake. Further mods might be required: a 92-120mm case fan on the side panel as well as 2x 80mm exhaust fans on the top between the handle will help with providing the airflow this case so desperately needs and DOESN'T have from stock. I wouldn't get this case if I wasn't ready to make these mods.

That being said, I am in love with this case. I'm sure normal people would rate it at 2-3 stars MAX, but I just can't do that. I want to give it 5 so badly, but I know that's just me being super biased. So 4 it is, and that's kind of generous, I feel like.

Big shoutout to the OCN community of TU100 owners - fer, simmons, myrdahl, and all the others from the thread - and reddit user /u/stupidasian94. Lots of help from other TU100 owners made it possible for me to do this build despite the difficulties entailed.

List of mods made:

  • Cut 2 holes in the bottom of the case with a hole saw and drilled 8 4mm holes for mounting of 2 Noctua A9x14's. Alterantively, one can go for a 120mm A12x15 or similar low-height 120mm fan and/or perforate the bottom panel instead of cutting holes for the fans.

  • Drilled 4 holes in the back panel for scooting the PSU roughly 15mm towards the side panel. This enables the CPU coolers of up to 70-75mm's to be mounted. Keep in mind you need at least 1cm of clearance between the CPU fan and the PSU in order for there to be sufficient air available to the fan of the CPU cooler. After having scooted the PSU, I've stuffed the hole with a ~20mm wide piece of perforated acryllic. Long-term plan is to replace this with a piece of perforated aluminium, spray-painted black.

  • Replaced the case feet with rubber feet. A fairly simple mod that drastically improves quality-of-life for users of the TU100. The stock case feet scratch any surface they go on, so you either have to put some sort of anti-scratch tape on them or replace them. Also, the stock case feet at <5mm high, and when the bottom panel is modded for air intakes, the fans really need some added height to have sufficient body of air available. Otherwise, you get turbulence and/or reduced cooling efficiency.

Power Supply

This is amazing. Quite simply amazing. I don't think it has ever spun outside of the few seconds during powering on.

Specifically for use in the TU100: Because it never spins, I can flip it in my case, so that the hottest part of the PSU is moved away from the CPU socket. This saves a few degrees in temps, but if you have system wattage high enough that it needs the fan to spin, I wouldn't flip the PSU as the fan of the PSU will fight the CPU cooler for the same air, effectively making both of them less efficient.

Case Fan

Silent, efficient, easy to install, comes PACKED with accessories (Y-splitter, extension cable, LNA, rubber mounts and screws). Would give it 6 stars if I could.

Case Fan

Absolutely wonderful case fan. A bit too noisy on 80%+, but that's to be expected. Moves a ton of air on low/mid RPMs and the LED is lovely and fairly understated in the TU100.

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  • 38 months ago
  • 2 points

The C7 has a nut/washer option vs the backplate. I have that setup on my Asus B150I board. The AIO Pump header on the Asus B150I does allow %control but not full PWM. Maybe there is a more complex option buried in the BIOS?

  • 38 months ago
  • 2 points

That sounds interesting - I'll have a look at what options the B150i board provides. You're right that there might be a buried option somewhere, but I feel like I looked far and wide to no avail.

Regarding the nut/washer option: apparently, users have reported mixed results when using the nut/washer vs the backplate. One reddit user claimed a 10C difference, in favor of the backplate. I suspect that's because the nut/washer is easier to mount unevenly, causing the connection between the copper heatsink and the IHS to be less than ideal. In any case, I wanted to be as efficient as possible with my temps, and that included using the backplate.

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

If you tighten the nuts evenly the result is about the same. I'm sitting at 41-42 C idle and high 50's/low 60's C depending on the type of stress and if the GPU is heating things up.

I'll eventually grab the backplate and try it to see what happens but for me things work well.

  • 38 months ago
  • 2 points

Nearly forgot this, but for sake of google search completeness, here's a little update on the AIO_PUMP control matter.

The Z270i board does indeed have a "deep" bios option to enable the PWM of the AIO_PUMP header. I changed it from QFan control disabled to PWM enabled, but this ****** up my boards ability to detect CPU_FAN being used, so I had to fiddle around with it for a bit (disable/reboot/enable seemed to do the job).

I updated the review of the Z270i to a 5-star review now.

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

I like the Asus ITX boards for the LGA 1151 socket. The PWM setting is definitely buried.

  • 38 months ago
  • 2 points

When you get those


close ups

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

woah, woah, woah, why are all these parts so expensive?

  • 38 months ago
  • 2 points

Welcome to Canada

edit. not Canada, but **** prices are expensive up here.

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

still a good build, feelsbadman

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

Haha, sorry guys. The prices are in local currency (DKK - Danish crowns). $1 = 6.91 DKK (as per 29/3-17)

I'm sorry I didn't quite change the prices prior to uploading. Been using PCPP as a means to keep track of total build cost, so that's the explanation. I should probably get this fixed so others aren't confused. Anyone know how to fix this?

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point


Fixed the pricing so it's for relevant US price levels. The cost for me, building out of Denmark, EU, was 9095 DKK or roughly $1300. Keep in mind comparing prices overseas makes little sense due to difference in taxes on components.

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

+1 for the Cool drink, never heard of that brand before

Nice build

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

Man twelve hundred bucks.. But you got such a cute little monster xD

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks man.

It is somewhat expensive, but it's also an unbalanced build, i.e. CPU/PSU doesn't "match" the GPU very well at all. From a PC gaming perspective, this is quite stupid (for my use case it makes a lot of sense doing moderately heavy database work though).

An easy way to save a couple of bucks, in case you're looking for a budget gaming build:

  • get the B250 itx board from MSI
  • stick to an i5-7500
  • drop the mod with the A9-x14's in the bottom (you don't need it if you're running 65W CPU and 75W GPU, but I'd do the mod if I was getting a 120W GPU).
  • get an SF450 instead of a SF600 (my fan never spins, which means I'm running at <120W total if I'm not mistaken).
  • You can even slap a single 8gb stick of RAM in there (in the socket closest to the edge) and save the other slot for a later upgrade for extra savings.
  • I'd still recommend the Cryorig C7 or the Noctua NH-L9i. Stock fans, especially those without copper in the base, just make no sense from a noise/performance ratio, and a $30 upgrade is definitely worth it for the sake of better noise/performance.
  • Also, using the bundled thermal paste with the cooler can save you $10.

You still want a premium case fan though. I don't think this case works at all unless you buy a new case fan, to be honest.

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

Love the build! Why did you have to buy your own thermal paste? I'm going for the same cooler and was wondering if I needed to buy it too. Cheers!

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

You DON'T need to buy it per se.

Cryorig C7 comes with a tube of decent paste. I went bought Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut because even a few degrees improvement goes a long way towards maintaining sub-80 degree load temps in this case. It's a super challenging case to get decent thermals in!

What case are you building? Unless you are building in a super confined (low CPU cooler height/size compatability), poorly designed (heatpockets between PSU/CPU e.g.) case with poor airflow, you should be able to get away with using the supplied C7 paste.

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

I had this question for long time in my head about this case.. How far the space between Mobo and Psu? Can i AIO CPU Cooler in the middle? Its complety impossible to setup pump and small reservoir, doesnt it?

  • 38 months ago
  • 1 point

CPU clearance (space between Mobo and PSU) is about 60mm clearance. It is possible to mod the PSU so you have 70mm clearance, but if you don't want to mod, you're stuck with 60mm clearance.

You can definitely use AIO CPU cooler. The problem is not the space for CPU cooler, the problem is the radiator. The most widely used radiator is the Corsair H75 with only one fan (exhaust push through front radiator).

  • 31 months ago
  • 0 points

Anyone who makes a rig for dota must go to hell... other than that. I give you an applaud.

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