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Jourg's Hulk PC

by Jourg



Date Published

July 11, 2018

Date Built

Dec. 4, 2017

CPU Clock Rate

5 GHz

CPU Temperature While Idle

34.0° C

CPU Temperature Under Load

62.0° C

GPU Core Clock Rate

1.683 GHz

GPU Effective Memory Clock Rate

10.108 GHz

GPU Temperature While Idle

34.0° C

GPU Temperature Under Load

64.0° C


This is my personal build which I use for GAMING (mainly) and my own side development experiments using python (ANN, RNN). This is a pleasure/hobby build.

The following components are not included in the total build cost.

  • Fan controller: Nzxt GRID+V2, 12V Digital Fan Controller
  • RBG lights and light controller: NZXT Hue+
  • UV lighting: 2x Nanoxia CoolForce 20 cm Ultra Bright Rigid LED Bar (amazon)
  • XSPC ECX Ultra Concentrate Coolant (UV green)
  • Custom length cables: (I sleeved them using parts from from Mainframe customs)
  • 1x 360mm Radiator: XSPC EX360 High Performance Radiator
  • PETG tubing from XSPC (10 mm ID, 14 mm OD)
  • CPU water block: EK-Supremacy MX
  • GPU water block: EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 – Nickel
  • Fittings & Drain Valve
  • Primochill Laing D5 pump
  • XSPC D5 Tank Reservoir V3

Additional modifications:

H500P (the mesh version wasn't a thing when I built this don't buy this case)

  • Replaced front and top panels of H500P with pre-perforated aluminum mesh painted black (amazon)
  • 7700k has been delid with a 5ghz stable OC

I'd estimate another $700 in additional costs.


  • I had to use an M.2 to SATA SSD adaptor for the second SSD drive due to Motherboard limitations.

Comments Sorted by:

customgtp 21 Builds 2 points 5 months ago

Love the uv green!! Sweet lookin build bro! I'd add a uv bar on the bottom of the gpu!!

Jourg submitter 3 Builds 1 point 5 months ago

I tried that actually, I bought some flexible UV LED's but they turned out to be duds (purple lights sold as UV lights). The plan was to cut them to length and then hide them behind the acrylic of the GPU block.

The only good UV led's I've found are the Nanoxia rigid LED's which I can't cut. These are so good I only used one LED in the first two pictures and two in the last two pictures (of the build itself) and you can't even tell the difference. I have one LED placed at the top and one on the bottom currently..

customgtp 21 Builds 1 point 5 months ago

Try this one... Works for me really well on my Zombie Hunter builds gpu after the stock led light broke

Nanoxia CoolForce 20 cm Ultra Bright Rigid LED Bar, UV

Jourg submitter 3 Builds 1 point 5 months ago

I think we are talking about he same LED. Haha, I have two of those, are you implying that these can be cut? If I can cut it then I may be able to adhere it to the bottom of the GPU block and keep it hidden.

customgtp 21 Builds 2 points 5 months ago

They are a hard based strip not a soft one. Kinda short but they make longer. I have them in 2 of my uv builds. My HTPC and Zombie build if you wanna look. I like um. Not sure if they cut easy but the smaller one will fit your short block just fine. Maybe a little hang over but I wouldn't cut it... They can be fragile. I've broken one before and they are not cheap

Squid_Soup 1 point 5 months ago

How’d you find an adapter or whatever for your m.2 to Sata ssd? I need one as well since mobo limitations.

Jourg submitter 3 Builds 1 point 5 months ago

I just looked in Amazon for M.2 to SATA adapter. Here is the one I used

LLEON69 1 point 4 months ago

Don't buy this case? I love the looks, but will look into another if given good reason.. would be my first build.

Jourg submitter 3 Builds 1 point 4 months ago

The H500P has two models the early model has plastic panels on the top and front that impede airflow. Also the panels are removable which would normally be a good thing if they didn't fall off the case by simply touching them. The new version (white) has replaced the front panel plastic with mesh (like I did) and also fixed the flimsy removable panels -- the new version is ok to buy go for it.

weizl716 1 point 4 months ago

Hi, I made the mistake of buying the same case without doing my research since it was cheap when i bought it. How did you go about making the mesh modifications?

Jourg submitter 3 Builds 1 point 4 months ago

I bought a sheet of aluminum with perforations -- here That's the exact one I used this particular piece is way bigger than needed so you can go with a sheet half the size of this one. The holes on this aluminum sheet are also big enough to thread in a typical motherboard mounting screw.

First I removed the plastic panels carefully, they are held in place by double sided adhesive. Then I carefully measured the plastic panes (the top one was the easiest. Made a cardboard template and fitted that template first to confirm it was a proper fit. Then I used the cardboard template to trace an outline onto the aluminum sheeet and cut it using cutting sheers. I bent the aluminum replacements to mimic the shape of the original plastic panels and then loosely put them on to confirm size again. Once I got it all lined up I lined up the holes in the aluminum and marked a few holes -- I drilled the holes into the plastic "panel holders" and then simply used some extra motherboard mounting screws to secure the aluminum replacements in place.

Didn't take to long to make this mod less than a couple of hours with the measuring -- pretty simple. Two things I would note however, you won't have dust filters with this mod (I'd dust often) and be sure to use an aluminum panel that is thick enough to hold it's shape otherwise the front panel will not go back in place properly. I couldn't find dust filters large enough to cover the front panel so I'm just going without -- my PC doesn't build up too much dust and I clean it often enough so it's not too big of a deal for me.

weizl716 1 point 3 months ago

Thank you!!