I have to confess to a bit of an inadvertent untruth. I stuck my head back in this thing for reasons, and realized that the board doesn't go behind the cage, just behind the installed drives. The net effect is largely the same, tho.
Lots of folks still swear by Sandy Bridge. I leapt straight from Wolfdale/Harpertown to Skylake, so my experience with the generations in between is limited. But so far, the jump in usability between Core 2 and Gulftown (granted, one of the faster Gulftown chips) is startling.
Surprisingly enough, yeah. It's naturally not much, but enough that it keeps the drives within safe operating temps. Definitely scouting for a new home. This is actually a transplant case; the original, though much nicer to work in, had no front intake at all. I'd experimented with setting all fan positions in that one to exhaust, but HDD temps weren't much better than this config. And it was bigger and noisier.
Nothing wrong with the power supply. Many, if not most, of Dell's PSUs are made by Delta. At least, that's been the case for every Optiplex and Precision I've seen in recent memory. While OEM often means crap, it doesn't always mean crap. Besides, in this form factor, you won't find anything better without spending pretty decent coin.
Someone's grandma build from last year had a dGPU in it because said grandma played Minecraft. You never know.
Not rust: tobacco smoke dust (probably).
I can see why the case made you :-(
Treat yourself to a new one for $CULTURALLY-APPROPRIATE-HOLIDAY!
Apple's generally pretty good at designing a chassis. I had an old Power Mac tower that was a pain to get apart if you didn't know what you were doing, but was slick as hell once you did.
P.S. Curse you, now I want to do this; have my +1.
There looks to be an Arctic Freezer cooler in one of the pics; did it not fit?
Did you have much issue getting 3200 on the RAM? Seems like a lot of Ryzen systems stall at ~3000.
While I'm not an adherent of GabeNism, I really like your psalm. Hard to believe they used to ship FX processors with such tiny heatsinks.
No, but if you go to the Parts List and select an individual part, you'll find links to sites where you can.
Oh, we're around...
To echo dmaster9494, ditching the onboard sound is a good idea when working with music, but if you're doing any recording, an audio interface like the M-Track 2x2 will serve you better than a sound card.
The price differential isn't large, and dual-channel can make a difference (albeit a very small one) in certain situations. Plus, if one module goes south, you still have one to limp along with during the RMA. I generally recommend two sticks in 4-slot boards.
Troubleshooting tip one: RAM. Two: Video card. Three: CPU. Four: Bin the whole thing. Memory and processor should be dirt cheap or free (I'll send you both for postage); video slightly more. Although if you don't have a purpose for it or just want to make it live for the lulz, probably not worth it.
That's quite the setup. A couple of questions present themselves. With a 1080 ti, why not stretch to 1440 monitors (or at least one)? Also, if buying around Black Friday, why spec out so early? The landscape will potentially be very different in five months.
You're safe with a 1050 or 1050 ti, providing the 1050 ti in question doesn't require PCIe power. An i3 (or G4560+ if KL-compatible) is an alternative to the suggested i5/i7, and will more than keep up with an entry-level card like the 1050 (ti).
You won't get High from PUBG within your budget, at least from what I gather. High settings in that game are murder on graphics cards. Also, why an FX chip at this point? A G4560 will do as well or better in gaming, and leave you budget for a better GPU. At least, it would if cryptomining hadn't set prices on mid-range and better cards completely out of whack. Maybe go with an RX 560 or GTX 1050, then resell and get something faster when pricing comes back to Earth. (You'll potentially take less of a resale hit with a less-expensive card.)
You'll likely be fine. The H7 isn't that far behind the expensive Big Air coolers performance-wise, and should get an acceptable OC from a decent 7700K.
Your limiting factor is going to be that 6670. Even an RX 550 will outclass it handily. You may even be able to get an RX 460 for not much more money if you look around. Don't expect to go above Medium in most recent games, even at 1366x768.
This happened to one of my threads; apparently when a user gets banned, all their comments are auto-purged as well. Which was frustrating, because the user in question had contributed some useful information, at least in my case.
While I haven't messed around with Mint, definitely check out XFCE. It's all the goodness of GTK without most of the GNOME bloat.
If you feel like getting closer to nuts and bolts, Gentoo is an experience worth having. Everything is built from source, and thus everything is optimized for your platform. Package management isn't as robust as Red Hat or Debian, but works reasonably well. Dependency issues are a bit trickier to work around, however.
(Caveat: it's been about a decade since I've seriously been into Linux, Gentoo or otherwise.)
If I had it do do over, I'd probably get the MSI B250M Mortar. It's ~$20 more expensive, though.
Just keep cranking the details until it's not. ;-)
Apologies; didn't mean to! But what about it, if I may ask, pokes your OCD bear?
Jeebus. I think I've seen 390s with less heatsink than those Aourus 580s. Killer build, though.
Yeah, it's definitely been around for a bit now. Hard to complain about getting a faster card than one's original choice for 2/3 the cost, though.
Very nice. How fast have you been able to clock the RAM?
It depends on what matters to you. The airflow could easily be equal between 1in/1out vs 2in/3out (or vice versa) depending on fan model and settings. the 1/1 solution would obviously be noisier in this scenario, and the 2/3 setup would have more absolute capability. Experimentation is really the best solution unless you're going to directly copy an existing configuration.
You might be able to tune +/- pressure by tweaking fan speeds. Spin up the fronts a bit and set the exhausts to minimum. You can use something like an incense stick or extinguished match or candle to see where the air is getting drawn in.
RAM issues are a bummer, and the most common hardware failure in my experience. It's gotten to the point that even if a persistent error doesn't seem to be memory-related, I'll start there. Glad to see you tracked it down relatively quickly.
Like the build: resembles something I'd put together myself.
The Air 240 is sort of cube-like... Qube*bert, perhaps?
Excellent work your first time out, by the way. Very well-balanced overall.
I understand your point re: trace length, but is that really significant in the case of PCIe since it doesn't sync with an external clock (I think)? This particular board has a traditional mATX 4-slot width; x1, x16, blank and x1, so it would seem that x16 in slot 2 isn't too much of an issue.
Not sure what you mean about power, though. All devices get their power from the board.
Hey, a mATX board with the x16 at slot 2! Nice; I can't figure out why so many have it at slot 1.
Wow. Been quite a while since I've seen anything in the AT form factor, and never with a Socket 7. I'm mildly impressed that everything works; the corrosion on most of the metal components suggests it hung out in a garage or something for quite awhile. Kudos for bringing it back up to speed.
Have you thought about sandblasting the chassis and repainting?
Great minds think alike?
The contrarian in me wants you to leave everything as-is, if only to drive everybody around here bananas.
What are you getting for RAM speed?
Nice find on the CPU; they go for about twice that on eBay US. Good deals on used MBs are much harder to find in my experience. All in all, excellent work!
Nothing wrong with your cable management, IMO. Even the back side looks OK, which is more than many can claim.
If nothing else, get a Z270 board so that you can OC that 7600K. No issues otherwise, though you have more PSU than you need. Hard to argue with the price, however.
Is this something you've already built? If not, James is right and you'll want to re-spec. As for the graphics question, RX 570.
Keep your hard drive; it's a good one. You don't need Gold, but the 500B Bronze is decent.
You could go with an air cooler. Ryzen doesn't seem to OC to the point where liquid gets you much. Other than that, any savings would be slight before you start giving up features.
My vote is Ryzen. There's a slight IPC deficit, but ya gotta love those extra cores and threads, and you could OC! Double check your board's QVL for RAM, as compatibility kinks are still being ironed out.
If you go Ryzen, try to fit in some faster RAM; early consensus seems to be that it makes a noticable difference. Compatibility is a potential issue, but is improving.
You're overspending on most of your parts, IMO. A Ryzen 1400 will probably do the trick, and you can get a light overclock on the stock cooler. I don't know that an SSD will elevate the customer experience enough to justify the cost, particularly of an EVO. A 2TB HDD will allow a larger static game library, unless you're leaning on network storage. At 1920x1080, a 480/580 or 1060 will be plenty, particularly if focusing on esports. Think about a Radeon with Freesync monitors.
The peripherals are wear items, so maybe the higher cost is justified if they last longer, but they'd have to last five times longer to match cost/benefit with an inexpensive m/k combo. A quality Bronze PSU will serve just as well as a gold. I didn't add alternative headphones, as I don't have much to contribute there.
The whole list comes in around $500 less, which at 15 machines is a not-insignificant $7500.
That was what prompted my comment. Just thought it'd be interesting to see how 6300+1060 and 4560+970 would do in comparison.
If you've got the time and inclination, it'd be fun to see the benchmark results with the graphics cards swapped.