You're rocking a 2080ti and a 3700x and you want to cheap out on a psu? Come now, the psu is THE ONE component that you don't want to cheap out on. Jump your budget up to a $100 and get an EVGA G5 750w or something similar. 700w is plenty for that setup but the psu you're looking at is mediocre at best.
You would be better off selling as a complete unit.
I know a people have put this vertical mount in the H500 case. Just keep in mind it uses/covers all the PCI-E slots and you'll need to make sure your GPU will fit length-wise if you have a front radiator.
$900-1,000 would be a fair price.
Your temps are perfectly fine, nothing to be concerned about. The exhaust fan/s will help when you get them because your hot air is just sitting in the case, slowly venting out. In the meantime you could temporarily take off the case side panel (if applicable) or use one of your three intakes as an outtake.
HDMI cable from graphics card to monitor 1.
Displayport to HDMI cable from graphics card to monitor 2.
Then you can go into your display settings and set resolutions/refresh rates and adjust the primary monitor and monitor layout. If you end up getting a high refresh monitor it should have a displayport on it. In which case I would do HDMI cable from graphics card to non-gaming monitor and a straight displayport cable from graphics card to gaming monitor.
At least he was kind enough to let you know! I would also recommend creating another email account specific to buy/trading online.
There are certainly a few risks involved with purchasing/selling parts outside of typical online store but there are a number of steps you can take to protect yourself from scammers. Always document everything in emails with a seller/buyer with as much detail as possible. Make sure everything is communicated clearly and that no expectations are left open for assumption.
A summarized transaction as a buyer would be something like this: Make contact with seller, get timestamp photo's, confirm all details in writing with emails, settle on a price, make purchase via PayPal using Goods & Services, wait for your shipment to arrive. As a seller it's just reversed, you want to be transparent with potential buyers.
When it comes to money, always use PayPal Goods & Services as a form of payment. As a seller you're going to be hit with a 2.9% fee of the total transaction cost so make sure you accommodate for that when you set your price. Always use invoices that include detailed product information, tracking numbers, etc. Never purchase anything from anyone who wants you to use Friends & Family payment. Once you send money via that method you can't get it back and a common scam is for sellers to convince buyers to use that payment and then never send the product. There is nothing PayPal will do to help you get your money back if that happens. However, if you use Goods & Services, both the buyer and seller have a level of protection and you have recourse if someone attempts to scam you. There is also were detailed documentation and detailed emails come into play. Also helps to register with Heatware and
I've bought a few things from this particular site but it's not the best place for pc hardware trading in my opinion. You can find a good deal here and there but it's not often and there's no real way to screen sellers or buyers other than looking at their membership status (How long they've been a member, how much they post).
I prefer /r/hardwareswap on reddit and I've bought/sold a lot of things there. There is a transaction ranking system so you can see the total amount of hardware trades from users, which have to be confirmed by both. A big majority of users there also use Heatware, which is a pc hardware review site where a buyer/seller get to rate one another and make comments based on their transactions. Transaction histories that all other users can access and see. Heatware also has its own marketplace where you can buy/trade. Those are the two site I would suggest looking at first.
At the end of the day, if you're a seller, don't be afraid to set your own terms and don't flex for anyone. Don't be over eager to sell items and if a potential transaction feels off, then walk away.
Nope, you'll be just fine and have plenty of headroom.
1000W would just be a complete waste of money. It's a common misconception with new, or inexperienced builders that more wattage is better and/or provides better performance and it's just not true.
As noted by others, 550W would suffice with 650W for some extra love. I would personally go with a 750W but that's just me. You're not going to get the full wattage of the psu to begin with and there will be some degradation of wattage over time. 750W would provide plenty of power, it would allow the psu to be more efficient at load, and it would provide plenty of headroom for overclocks and an additional gpu down the road if he wanted.
Just tell him you have a community of pc building experts telling him that 1000W is too much and unnecessary. Good luck!
No. If you're happy with your 970 I don't think there's any reason to go into debt over a 1070. Continue to enjoy what you have and save your money. Or buy the 1070 and resell it at a profit. That's an idea too.
There appears to be two graphics cards that are sealed and unopened in the pictures. Then there are pictures of other, opened graphics cards.
The only thing I could do after reading this is laugh. Not at philip's comment because I'm glad they keep things reined in here, but at the fact that there are people who create alternate accounts to upvote their other accounts. I can't fathom why anyone would do that. It's hysterical.
That is a very good psu. You will enjoy it!
No problem. Since that's the case then you can't go wrong with the monitor you have linked. Price, brand, style is all a personal preference thing anyway. But if that's not important my suggestion would be saving money and just getting a normal, quality 1080p monitor. I -personally- wouldn't see a need in paying the premium for a Free-sync 144hz monitor that's being used for secondary purposes.
Either way, enjoy! Once you go to two monitors it's impossible to go back to one.
To answer your question, yes it would probably work fine. However, a question to you would be why would you want it to?
You're building a nice computer, don't try to save money on the psu. It's arguably the most important part of any build. A crappy psu could take down the entire system in a very bad way. I would never use that brand or that psu in any build.
If you want to save money get a different motherboard or something. Don't cut money away from having a quality psu.
That depends, what are you using the second monitor for? If your SWIFT is being used for games while the secondary monitor is being used for something else like Twitch, chats, etc. then it doesn't matter what monitor you get. You wouldn't need to spend that much money on a secondary monitor.
If you're buying a second monitor in order to game on both at the same time then I don't recommend that at all. You have to realize that using two monitors for gaming puts the bezels right where the center of your vision would be. Fps gaming is impossible because you can't aim straight on due to the gap. Driving games would be somewhat manageable though.
A third option, if you wanted a larger field of vision would be taking the money from selling your SWIFT and the money you would spend on a second monitor and buy something like a Predator or a PG348Q.
So no, it's not unorthodox to have two separate sized monitors if the secondary monitor is truly secondary and IF that is the cause then spending that much money for a second monitor is not worth it. However, if you're wanting to expand to two or three monitors for gaming then you need to save your money and spend it on the same monitor. Don't mix and match.
I think 3200Mhz is the sweet spot before diminished returns. Some argue 3000Mhz, but you're really good either way. Dominator Platinum is also very good ram. It's binned chips that meet a high standard and you can overclock them very well compared to "cheaper" ram dimm's out there. That being said, you do pay a premium for the "Dominator Platinum" name and there are other brands like G.Skill Tridentz that are in the same quality category that can save you some money depending on the model.
When I look at ram I look at what speed I want, then look at the brands and styling I want within those speeds. I personally use 3200Mhz Dominator Platinum and couldn't be happier. Although, when I purchased 16GB it was $119 and now it's $200ish for the same kit.
Thanks, sorry for the late response. The small display is setup as a secondary monitor. It is powered via usb and uses an HDMI input. The control unit for the display is mounted within the case basement. It's simply attached to the basement using 20lb. black double-sided tape.
The temps, etc. you see on the monitor are being generated by Rainmeter, which is a custom desktop program that pulls information from Open Hardware Monitor. If you need further details just let me know.
EVGA is what I would recommend.
The only good Cooler Master psu's are the V series which are made by Seasonic and I believe Channel Well. Raidmax are complete garbage. Thermaltake is risky in general. They have some okay psu's and they have some bad ones - typically you don't get a good quality Thermaltake until you get one of their high-tier psu's.
That would be a horrible choice.
I don't dislike Thermaltake in general, but I also don't use their products and don't recommend others to use their products either. This story isn't outside the norm for them, and it's a shame you've had to go through the ordeal. In my opinion it's always a better idea to spend a little more, if you have to, on a quality brand and a quality product. Thermaltake is neither in my experience.
In regards to customer service? In my experience, yes. I've dealt with RMA's through both companies and never had any issues.
Please link me where you can buy these mystical $720 1080's. So I can buy them and resell them on eBay for a nice profit.
The downside to using a television is only apparent in fast-action online games like fps, etc. Televisions product a lot of latency and input lag which cause a less than desirable experience for a lot of people. However, if you're just a casual gamer it's doubtful you would even notice a difference. Lot's of people use hdtv's as monitors and if you're on a budget there's nothing wrong with using one.
I think "great upgrade" is a terrible understatement. :)
Great! Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions.
This was something that could be a concern back when SSD's first came to market and the technology wasn't mature. That's not the case anymore and it's not something you should worry about unless you're writing 100's of gibs a day to an SSD which is a ridiculous amount. A normal user is looking at 5-25gibs a day. At which point you're looking at wearing out your drive, depending on the capacity, in about 20-100+ years.
Other than price and what your budget allows, no.
SeaSonic is one of the very best. That particular psu is pretty good. You'll be fine.
If that's your budget my suggestion would be jumping on /r/hardwareswap and picking up a 980ti for around $300-325. You need the 'ti'! ;)
It's not necessarily a bottleneck because your cpu is working fine. It's just your cpu isn't capable of the same level of performance. The 7500 is a rocking chip. My only suggestion would be to look at a few graphics settings that you could tone down a bit without impacting any desired visuals you're after. Something like tuning anti-aliasing down from 16x to 4x - visually it's doubtful you can tell, but it would provide a performance boost. (I'm just guessing at the settings here because I don't have the game).
Anything over 2400mhz is an overclock. The 7700k scales well with a ram overclock and once you overclock the cpu itself it scales even better. The ram defaults to 2400mhz when installed and you simply need to enter BIOS and enable XMP profiles. Your system may or may not need voltage tweaks after that once you start overclocking the cpu.
Whether or not it's worth it will depend on your budget. I chose 3200mhz because for me it was the sweet spot between performance and diminishing returns. Anything over 3200mhz yields very little performance gain in comparison to what you see from 2133 to 3200 for example. I personally wouldn't recommend using ram below 2400mhz, but that's just me.
The guy is pulling more frames than you because GTA5 benefits from more cores and his 6700k has hyperthreading (8 cores versus your 4). When you combine that with any overclock he has on the cpu, it's going to produce more fps, especially in games that like having more cores.
I would also make sure you removed the clear film from the bottom of your cpu heatsink. It could be a number of small issues causing the problem, but given the time it takes to shutoff it sounds like you're reaching a high cpu temp and the computer is shutting down for safety. If you are certain you removed the film and applied thermal paste correctly, try to boot into BIOS and monitor the temps before it shuts down. In the very least you can rule out overheating that way.
Also, like Jeff_M mentioned, double check to make sure all your power connections are secure.
I wish 0.9% was the norm for my bank. Hah! That rate was actually a deal Mazda was running on certified used cars at the time. Make sure you take advantage of all available tax breaks for owning a hybrid car!
Yes, that is how financing works - the item is always a little or a lot more expensive in the end if any interest is applied. However, you have to factor everything into the equation though if you want to determine actual cost and value. I'll use an example of the car I recently purchased: 2016 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring. The total price includes everything... tax, tags, fee's, and total interest over the life of the loan.
Brand new 2017 price: $43,000 - 0% / 60mo - Total cost = $47,447
Certified Used 2017 price: $38,000 - 5k miles - 0.9% / 60mo - Total cost = $43,890
Certified Used 2017 price: $38,000 - 5k miles - 3.1% / 60mo - Total cost = $45,854 (Same car here with typical financing through a bank)
Certified Used 2016 price: $34,000 - 10k miles - 0.9% / 60mo - Total cost = $38,313
I chose the 2016 option because the trim levels and features were identical to the newer 2017, minus a few insignificant changes, and I saved nearly $10,000 in the long run. I got all the benefits of the warranties, and a warranty extension (which is better than the stock warranty the new car comes with). In my case there were no benefits for purchasing new other than knowing I would have been the only owner, and getting to appreciate the toxic, chemical new-car-smell. :)
I do like your example, but you didn't quite go deep enough. One thing you're not taking into account is the depreciation % of your particular vehicle too. If you plan to drive the vehicle until the wheels fall off it doesn't matter. But if you buy a brand new car and will likely trade it in in about five years or so, calculating the % of money you lose due to the depreciation of your vehicle might make you think twice about purchasing it brand new. This is entirely dependent on the vehicle of course - they all depreciate quite differently.
My initial comparison was only surface deep and only in relation to the relative value of brand new versus used. In most cases you can buy used (Iike a car (tabling finance) or a gpu), still receive an item in brand new condition, still benefit from warranty coverage, and pay less money. In fairness lots of people find value in having a crisp, brand new item and that's okay too.
I think the common misconception here (Reference to the OP) is that used computer parts are not any good, or at a higher risk of problems and that's rarely the case. Buying used computer tech is a fantastic way to save a lot of money. Just do your homework in checking out where it came from, what it was used for, and try to purchase from a reputable site.
Major props for running a business that does that!
Your cpu is going to be more important for streaming games than your ram. Depending on your cpu, that extra money will be much better spent on upgrading it.
By default I would never recommend anything less than 16GB unless you're only using the computer for basic computer needs. I'm of the mindset of paying a little more to have the overhead you need in case you need it.
But really it's going to come down to budget. Can you afford 32GB of ram with no problem? If the answer is yes, then just get it so you don't have to worry about it - you'll never complain about having too much ram. If you're on a strict budget then stick with 16GB.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with buying used gpu's. Just make sure you purchase a card from a manufacturer that allows has warranties that stay with the card and not the original purchaser. EVGA is the king when it comes to warranty support - their warranties follow the card. Also make sure you inquire about what the card was used for. I wouldn't buy a used card that was used for mining.
I personally haven't purchased a brand new gpu in almost ten years. There's really no point, it's like purchasing a new car. Would you spend $40,000 on a brand new car, or spend $35,000 on the same model car with 5,000 miles on it? Same concept with gpu's.
Check out /r/hardwareswap. 1050ti's are going for about $125 shipped, or you could step up to a 1060 for around $200-220.
You can find buyers on here every once in a while. The best place to sell would be at /r/hardwareswap. You would be looking at a $350-375 US dollars for the card with shipping included.
I wish you luck in selling the card but you'll likely need to adjust pricing, if you haven't already sold it, to around what you'll find on /r/hardwareswap. The prices you find there are what used computer parts are generally going to be valued at, namely because you don't have people marking up costs to absorb the fee Ebay imposes on you - which is why Ebay pricing is always typically higher.
The most recent 1080ti's were being sold for $625 and $650 shipped. I know you're trying to recoup your money, but the second you opened the card it became a used product. Unfortunately it won't matter if you used the card for 10 minutes, 2 hours, a month, or not at all. I'm also not sure you're going to find someone willing to pay via PayPal Friends & Family for such a high price item. It doesn't provide the buyer with any protection. You need to be prepared to use PayPal Goods & Services which is going to cost you 2.9% of the total cost, but the bonus here is that it protects both you and the buyer.
If you've already sold it, my post is useless, but if you haven't it may be worth considering. Good luck either way!
Edit: I also find it a little odd you're unwilling to cater to the request of other posters of taking a picture with both graphics cards. It only takes five minutes to power down a computer, unplug it, take the side panel off, remove a graphics card, take a picture, and reinstall/power up. Those five minutes could cost you a sale.
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass is a great case. Used a lot in builds, but a very great case. I could be a little biased though....
There is some info in the build log towards the bottom that explains it. It's basically a screen that functions like a second monitor. Powered by usb and displays using hdmi. It's mounted inside the case using double-sided 20lb. tape.
Many thanks! I've thought about it...
What kind of help specifically?
I can't tell if you're being serious or sarcastic...
It makes it easier to scam people if you communicate with them via pm only. I'm not saying this guy is scamming, but a first time poster to the forum not taking one minute to post computer specs or a link to a picture or two? Seems fishy to me.
No problem. No the screen is connected to the video card and a usb port for power. Scroll through the build description. I added a section explaining the mini lcd screen. Good luck with the build!