It's fine as far as I can tell, granted I stuck with the XMP for it's rated speeds (3200) since trying to OC past that proved troublesome.
I moved them long ago actually, haven't updated the pictures.
I was looking to sell this motherboard so I could get a Mini ITX one (and a Core V1 instead of the V21 with that), but it'd be a bit of a hassle since the socket's missing a pin (Which I assume is for the iGPU since I have no issues using it).
I already have that in mind for the future, not sure when since I'm currently saving up for a new laptop so it would definitely be a while (not to mention I've only been testing/settting things up on it right now).
Depends on how much you pay for it compared to other PSUs. Unless you found a good sale/deal on it, you probably ought to get the ~500W one instead if it's cheaper.
For example, I bought my EVGA SuperNOVA 750B2 when it was on sale for $56.99. My current build (let alone the Pentium & 750ti I used to have in it) won't even come close to 750w, but I couldn't have bought a better PSU for that price.
I bought it when Amazon had it on sale for $56.99 back in December (For some reason, only the 750B2 and the 500-600B were on sale IIRC), the only other PSUs at that price were either non-modular or were of inferior quality. This was also at a time when I considered getting a i5-4690k (and before deciding to get cheapo parts to get this PC up and running) so wanted a Tier 2 PSU with some headroom.
You can lock the LED color for the Talon mouse by clicking the mouse wheel and DPI button at the same time, but it won't remember this after you unplug or power the computer off unfortunately.
I'm sure it'd run smoothly on at least medium settings, I have no reason to use the iGPU on mine since i have a card now but I think's it's not too far behind a GT 730 in terms of power.
My rule of thumb's to have it up against a corner or wall if possible, then again I have a massive cube case so that's hardly a concern for me.
Yeah, it just feels like I could do better.
At the sub-$100 range AMD's only better for overclocking and multi-core applications (I think Streaming is) ATM (Price not so much with H110 boards being as cheap as they are), otherwise I'd say the Pentium's the better option for single core performance and clearly more future proof hardware.
Thermaltake basically held a series of giveaways (which all had various Thermaltake, Asus and Axevir products up for grabs) on their community forums to coincide with their first ever CaseMOD Invitational competition from last year (Where everyone was using Core X9's). I won the X9 in the last giveaway in that event where you just had to 'nominate' a case-modder that you'd like to see compete in the next event and why to get an entry.
I do love me some bargain hunting after all. Aside from the Chassis (Which would have been $150 had I not won it) and the PSU it's definitely a great example of a budget build.
Tt Toughpower Gold is good (Around Tier 2 AFAIK), I agree that he could have went with a similar 550-650W one if it costs less and that 16GB is too much for gaming.
I think the bare minimum for this build would be an i3 since it has 2 additional threads, but still not as good as an i5.
80+ certification is never a sole indication or reliability/quality. It's mainly the OEM that matters. For instance EVGA has some great PSUs such as their Supernova B2, G2 and GS lines (and their Platinum and Titanium rated equivalents) which use Seasonic or Super Flower units as their foundation. But most of their other PSUs are built by inferior OEMs (especially their NEXB/G series) which aren't as ideal for high-load applications like overclocking.
He probably means a more stable/reliable unit like Antec, Seasonic (or Seasonic-based like XFX), etc. since EVGA's 500/600B probably isn't the best PSU for higher-end gaming builds.
I take it as long as you aren't overclocking the 280x (I know the CPU's locked and I doubt you'll OC' the ram) real hard it should be fine.
Reference cards are video cards sold by AMD or Nvidia (Sometimes third party companies sell these cards under their name) that often have a stock blower-style cooler and run at stock speeds, they tend to run hotter and/or louder than 3rd party cards like those made by EVGA, Sapphire, etc.
There is no overclocking a 4590 since all non-K Intel processors are locked, he'll probably need to get a Z97 board since you for the most part can't OC the processor on a H97.
Thermaltake does make some good units like their Toughpower Gold series among others, but the Smart and TR2 series are a bit sketchy unless you don't put them under much load which this build could if you overclock anything.
Look for XFX, Seasonic, Antec, and EVGA's Supernova B2/G2/GS if your looking to replace the PSU with something more suitable for overclocking.
All you need if you have an HDTV is an HDMI cable, which covers both audio and video.
I'm certain 802.11a/b/g/n/ac and 802.11a/b/g/n are always the protocols for Dual Band, so it's not that necessary.
Hopefully not a Supernova NEX G since parts-wise they are hardly any better than Corsair CX's, Supernova GS & G2 on the other hand are top notch as Seasonic-based units usually are.
The blue LED one? That's a blue Thermaltake Riing 12, a fairly new high static pressure fan of theirs which they just made RGB versions of.
There's one Blue Riing fan in the back where there was a stock one in two of the pics, but that's it.
What Seasonic or Corsair CX's? Seasonic's one of the best brands for reliability and they are even the OEM for XFX PSUs as well as a couple by EVGA, nearly all of which are tiers 1 or 2.
I'll be likely going for a Sapphire or XFX 380 in my build instead of a 280.