Wow, just awesome.
Somewhat dismayed by how large that case is...it's huge. I was planning to use this case for a project, but I really have to rethink that now.
Just a thought...pull it all out.
First, paint the inside of the case semi-gloss. Black would be simple, but your mobo has red elements. So, why not paint all the bare metal inside matching red. Second, you have blue fans which you could pull out and replace for like $14 with red LED fans.
Total cost extra cost is $3 in painters tape, $11 in paint, $14 in fans, and a few hours of your time. But, your buyer gets a very custom looking case and you could probably charge $50 more. It's a win-win because 90% of satisfaction how it makes you feel, if your buyer looks in the case days, weeks, or a year later they will feel good about the system just looking at it.
Nice build, very clean even with some tricky tucks and bends in tight spots.
Mostly, I liked the look of it. Moreover, I didn't want to wait until Broadwell-E or K Core i7 was out, so I wasn't going to spend a ton on this placeholder chip. I wanted a K processor to play with OC, but didn't feel like spending more on the next chip up.
But, again I wanting a good looking board...but one that was upgrade-able.
You right...it is messy. ;-) But I wanted to OC/benchtest the system to make sure it all worked before tying/binding/strapping too much down. It is already a bit neater than you see in the pictures, but I will/should make another pass through the case before I button it up.
I'm shocked it even works!!! First build, and I didn't break it or me.
I have room on my SDD for the games I'm playing and a RAM Disk...I rather doubt my Green which is just for storage will make a differnce.
The art projects are rendering, not high end enough to need a better processor, but sizable enough that the 8GB of RAM would be nice as I switch between files...notice I said 8 not 16. Fully half of the 16 GB of memory installed MIGHT BE devoted to a RAM Disk. I'm going to play around with the RAM Disc features to see if it helps...if not, "meh" 16 GB didn't cost that much and I can just use the RAM as RAM for my files. I suppose in gaming I could devote the RAM disc to game maps??? Who knows...
I bought the mobo mostly because I liked it looks and didn't like the looks of the cheaper boards. It never hurts to have quality parts...but I really I just liked the look of it. And, again, once my programs are in memory on the RAM disc it hardly matter what speed my HHD is because I'm accessing program date at 20x the speed of an SSD.
I fixed the cables a bit afterward, but there is not much I could do in some spots. I will do another pass once I have the OC done. I want it neat...but I'm not going to sweat seeing some wires. I might install a shield at the bottom so you don't see the PSU or the wires.
Wow, the dozens of options on those cases pretty much make each of them custom cases. Very cool build, very elegant design.
Very nice. I know the feeling of just wanting to build something...just because. I have a similar build in mind for an old case, and I'm planning to put a GTX 750ti in it. It will be a gift to my nephew, and we will build it together.
In a perfect world, no. Unfortunately we don't live in a perfect world. There can be all sorts of faults, mis-wirings and just bad wiring. There can even be weird transients so you can test it and it seems fine but then when the AC shuts off ...
Always assume an outlet might be hot from every wire and part.
"...For ESD protection, I got an old extension cable and cut off the two top prongs, leaving me with the ground prongs. I cut off the wires for the two prongs, and stripped the ground prong of it's sleeving. I plugged that into a wall outlet, and connected an anti-static wriststrap to the exposed wire. This way, the electricity would flow from me, into the wire, into the outlet, through the breaker, and into ground."
YOU DID WHAT NOW? You plugged yourself into a live outlet using jury-rigged wires...? Umm, you could have just taken a pot out of your kitchen and 'touch metal' without the threat of electrocuting yourself....and THAT only if the computer case itself was not metal.
You're lucky nobody poured maple syrup on your head because you were fried to a crisp!!!
Seems good. Good luck with it!
Yeah, sure no wi-fi, and put money towards RAM. The RAM I just put up 8GB or 1600 CAS 8 RAM is very fast.
The CPU is a toss up. The Core i5 are more expensive and some games will benefit from four cores and some won't. So if you were going to play say SimCity or TES Skyrim with all the math going on calculating actions of objects out of sight in the background those cores help. However, if you playing Call of Duty or Crysis those cores don't matter because shooters and action games don't use that sort of processing. Then again in two years more game might be using more cores. My advice is if you want to save some cash and play current games pretty well an i3 is sufficient. If you want to put more money into the CPU than great in the coming years they will get used. I would however buy a cooler, you don't have to overclock a cpu to need a cooler, a chip you can run cooler will last longer and works better.
Everyone makes good v-cards these days, but EVGA is known for making very solid overclocked cards. But, your SAPPHIRE Radeon R9 280 3GB is about the same in price and has more vRAM. I think they are near equal with a slight edge to your card. Honestly the build I gave you I had sitting around in my "this is a possibility" shelf and as prices move around what is the best choice changes. So go with the SAPPHIRE because you can never go wrong with more vRAM.
I don't know a ton, but you power supply should provide what you need for power plus 25% more just to scrape by. That means the estimated wattage is 300 than you want at least 500 watts. Gaming PC s pretty much start at 500 watts and go up as you add more video cards, more storage drives, more fans, more lights, etc.
I think there are just a few things to know. The Core i5 is a great line of chips, but if you just want a first gaming computer you could go with a Core i3...you could save some budget there...that is all I'm saying. The H81 chipset is the "budget" option for motherboards and -as such- is extremely limited compared to other chipsets. It does not support SLI/Crossfire at all, has only two SATA 6Gb/s ports (plus four SATA 3Gb/s ports), and only two USB 3.0 headers. In addition, it does not support any of the major features found in the other chipsets like RST12 and Smart Response Technology. Finally, H81 only supports one DIMM per memory channel so it will be limited to a maximum of two sticks of RAM. In simple terms you have a nice Core i5 and it won't support all the nice things it does. Go with an H87 board.
Also, I think the power supply is a bit under powered for overhead, and the video card is is wasted in you use a H81 board.
From what I see what you have would work..it would function, but it cut corners in the wrong places and over spends in other places that it does not need to do. So, take a look at this:
I like micro ATX builds, I think for a first machine their compact design is makes a small build look bigger. A Core i3 chip that is good enough for current gaming. A motherboard that is not made for overclocking BUT CAN overclock despite being an H model. This board will take the refresh i5 or an i7 when or if you want to upgrade. The cpu cooler works well, has a variable speed fan, and is not expensive. The RAM is just enough to squeak by, but again the mobo is sold for taking up to 16GB. The storage is 1TB and will work fine, later on add a SSD and move the OS to that bingo its better still. The video card is always an issue...I have no strong opinion but a Nvida GTX 660 is a solid low-end card with PLENTY of kick. You can run game on near maximum setting everything turned on with 55 to 75 fps @1080p..or kick setting to just high and let the fps fly. A 500Watt PSU is fine for this build not a ton of overhead but you ain't doing SLI with this so it has enough to add drives and fans and still supply enough juice. The case is small but comes with nice features for a neat clean case with wires hidden and tucked away. Oh, and I tossed a wireless card in there too..just in case it wasn't going to sit near your router or needing to string cat5.
This build is complete, all the cost in there, even the cost of the OS. Okay, I didn't put a keyboard and mouse in there but you can add those later...this $715 machine is all the pointy end of the stick. Low cost, but upgradeable and a solid base.
It seems like using a Dremel or drill to create more holes in the case for routing wires woudl have been a better plan. Its a hassle to cut holes and clean holes, but wire routing would be FAR easier after you do that.
Explain the choice of power supply? I'm new at this and don't understand. It seems like 760W is more power than your need even if you do go SLI, and 80+ Platinum...is power efficiency worth the extra $100?
You know what I could be wrong. Take at look at this guy's build...
See how he has the fans, sorts of having the case fan working with the cooler and cooler fan. That might do it for you too without spending $30.
Well, right off the top you need to buy a good cooler the one coming free in the AMD box won't do it for you. Get a 3rd party cooler, I don't have advice on that maybe someone else can be specific about what to buy for that chip...I hear it runs hot.
Second you need a bigger power supply always take what wattage you have from all the parts and add 25% more at least. For that build I would get a 550 watt for some nice overhead.
That video card...well I don't see many reviews on it and the one I do see says ist crap. Newegg customers have had issues...I would avoid this card. If you need that price point look elsewhere. JMO
You need a better cooler...look at a Cooler Master Seidon 240M 86.2 CFM Liquid. Variable speed so it will be quiet when CPU is not working hard but ramp up for cooling with fairly quiet fans when needed. IMO If you want to overclock, protect that cpu with enough cooling.
Its not hard to just put your OS and primary programs on a small SSD. Then you can install other applications on the slower 'whatever drive'. Some little bits will get written to the SSD boot drive too - registry entries, small things that make teh computer turn on correctly, etc.
I would recommend at least a 120 GB SSD, that will put your OS with room for programs like word processor... or games you want to run slick as eel ****. But your other big slower HDD drive has everything else.
There are tutorials online that will explain what to do and why.
I did a comparison for you...[I cannot say if the website is correct, but it does at least give a view of the question.
I say it depends on what matters to you most price/power watts/frames?