Unless you want linux, its time for win10 if you dont have already.
Win10 is just a legacy name for Windows (so theres a distinction between previous versions).
There will be no win11 or win12 etc. Windows is now windows and will be continually updated, just like Chrome.
Get a full retail licence so theres no problem with upgrades, as opposed to OEM licence (tied to 1 build)
You tie it with your account so you dont ever need a key past the first install. If you do a major upgrade you just link it to the new build. Easy as. (You can have a choice of pcs and switch the licence to whatever pc)
Also you can log in with a 4 digit pin - easier than a normal password.
Also you can turn off all the data logging if youre worried about that.
No no, happy to help.
Good pickup. I didnt even notice. It was done out of habit. I had never bothered with anti vibration mounts before but going with 3 fans at front i gave it a go. Screws are definitely more secure though.
Raised to top to be flush with top edge of opening. Exhausts air from top a bit more, its still adequately lined up with CPU cooler exhaust and only one bit of tape required.
Sorry, late response.
The D15s's heatsink is offset to allow more space between it and the GPU. (do a google image search to see)
Exactly same performance (with 1 fan conifg). If required, i can always grab another fan. It's good enough, and i doubt i'll ever bother.
Some people have more dalars. Apart from price, 4K still hasnt solved its scaling issues (you have to up scaling to see fonts and when you do that you encounter mismatched size errors and/or blurriness with software).
I should say that it isnt the monitor but the software that has to be written with very high DPI compatibility in mind. Last time i tried even MS Windows & Steam hadnt solved it, let alone the myriad of software a normal system uses. Good luck with that piece of accounting software you may use.
No, 3x a12x25s quieter. If you get the noctua fan controller you can dial them down precisely till they just inaudible.
WAY more air. I use to have to open the front door of R5 case with 2x a14 when gaming.
I dont measure. One thing i know is that a hell of a lot more air continually blows through the GPU rear vent as ive stated due to positive pressure. (i tape everything up, even the PCI bracket slots. Air only exits via rear fan, PSU & GPU vent. PSU fan is perm. off)
Bit of a pain at first but not too much hassle when i got the hang of it.
Make sure you put them in the right way and pull them through. You'll think theyll tear when they stretch but they dont. Make sure they are fully seated and 'locked in'.
I had to trim the ends with scissors to make them nearly flush so they didn't impinge with the front door closed.
Sorry for delay, havent been on for awhile.
I cant remember. Around mid 70s on some tests of prime.
That's wholly unrealistic though. In gaming the temps are low enough to be inconsequential. In fact the hottest it will get (apart from torture tests) is encoding video in Handbrake.
I should post my BIOS settings. As a few tweaks can make quite a difference. I didnt offset my AVX as i wanted full overclock (not handicapped) during Handbrake (and any software that may utilize it).
Ask away if you want any advice. Ill check back from time to time.
Sorry for delay. I haven't been on for awhile.
Yes, i tape up every hole. Even the small ones on the front of the case with the cover removed.
The tape is a regular brand from hardware store. I just used clear sticky tape over the white PCI expansion slots.
The little noctua fan controller works wonders as i have it dialed in to get exactly the most push from front fans JUST below audible. (Right now i'm in the dead silence of night and i can hear the fans, but its so quiet & inoffensive its good enough for me).
With the R5 i had 2x a14s. It wasn't enough air flow for gaming on hot days so i had to open the front door. With 3x a25s the door is closed permanently.
Thanks for the tip. What is the purpose though? Is it just creation of a partition/s - jbod?
From what you say it seems that youre using the SSDs as cache drives for the HDDs. Like a massive SSHD.
Id love to remove the HDDs and use the cloud but here my internet speeds are woeful. Very slow upload and 1mB/s download. My bluray rips are 20-30gb. That would take an eternity.
They are silent when the speed is low enough. Thing is they'll be quieter at a given rate.
They move more air - flow&pressure- for a given level of loudness than any other. They are the utmost quality. All noctua gear is.
I'm not saying this lightly, out of any industry, Noctua has to be among the best for sheer quality.
Regarding i/o. Its got enough lanes for me. There's no reason for me to spend more on a mobo.
As long as the board has the features you want, and the manufacturer you trust. That's it. It's an area not to waste $ on. That money can go towards things that will make a difference.
I should have put in my opinion. Without spending ridiculous money, it does its job well. Fractals are extremely well built compared to others. Ive worked on a ton and had a $400 lian li. R6 takes the cake.
Tell us, what is this case that you speak of?
Yes. Also the silly white plastic marketing i/o shroud can be removed via 3 screws at the back.
Apart from looks, it does nothing but impede air around the VRM. I took it off and put it in mobo box for reattachment when i sell.
All i have to say is, it's great.
Thank you. Your 10 builds are pretty darn excellent! Are they all for yourself in your PC lair of doom?
Thanks. I am very surprised given the prevalence of RGB builds.
Never would have thought.
I use the front intake filter. Pics are just to show the innards.
Regarding the rear grill that i removed with dremel- Nah, it would still let in dust while being a hindrance.
All air in while on is via filtered front.
I was waiting for someone to get it. +1 giant juice box for you.
They are great. They'll also last for a very long time. Recommend the non-industrial 'normal' versions.
For 120mm the best you can get is the new A12x25. Check the current featured build with 3 of them in the front.
Looks good. +1 for no RGB. (you deserve a bigger monitor)
Cheers. I'm curious to see what the chromax does to cooling. At Computex they displayed a black powder coated version of the heatsink. Surely that has to detrimentally affect cooling. Even if its .5c, thats .5c id rather have than lose to looks.
Especially when i don't see it. The PC is a black box under the desk.
Also, that's $ i could put towards better gear.
Reliability & lifespan. AIOs can leak, pump can & will fail, and crud builds up inside.
A big dumb block of metal with a good fan works well. Remember that the D15 beats quite a few AIOs. Regarding lifepsan, Noctua's fans last a VERY long time (they are guaranteed for 6 years). Also, they will send you out future socket mounting kits, if required, for free to anywhere in the world.
i.e. their lifespan is indefinite. The only way it can go wrong if the fan fails (incredibly slim chance).
Re: overclocking. I'm at 5ghz and I'm more than happy.
Top left of pic 5 you can see the FC1. Looking at the case from front on, with front removed, there is a zip tie holder at top right. Dremel out the little ziptie holder bar and there's space to put the cables through. Thread them through the side grills and voila! The male end of the power cable requires a quick hacksaw & file to make it fit. (the height, not length, needs to be adjusted).
I didn't include pics of the covers and filters as its just a black box.
The FC1 is perfect. Tiny, precise control and, like all things Noctua, extremely well made.
hey, found out from Fractal that they have a part store.
Here is what you need. https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5-USB-Kit.
$4.90 euro shipping cost.
Unfortunately its only been built as is. Please refer to the A12 comment above (regarding comparison to 2x A14s in my old R5). In the R5, because i wanted silence, i wasn't pushing enough air with the A14s so it wasn't the coolest. Other fan configurations/airflow movement plan would be necessary. ( i worked with it by opening the door under high load).
Keep in my though that i tape up EVERY hole/grill, even the PCI slot cover grills (clear sticky tape), The only way air can escape is literally the rear fan, PSU and GPU vent. Reason - every little bit of air (apart from rear fan) is pushed through GPU cooler and PSU components.
You didnt break a pin right? just bent? bend them back with needle pliers or whatever. i hate internal usb 3 cables - way too inflexible. Google 'moddiy premium black usb3 extension cable' they low profile and very flexible, you wack them on end of the usb3 cables and route easily. Before i got them i nearly wrenched the whole header socket off the board by the torque from the bend in a cable.
Re: Grills. They make noise! hence the removal. I dont go sticking my fingers there willy nilly.
Here's a good read: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
Thats one thing i dont like about the R5 & R6. No removable grill. My old Lian Li had one. simple. According to Puget test i saved 3+ decibels & 10% airflow. Ill take that.
lol cool little dung beetle.
What case did you have? honestly you cant hear these in the R6. its very quiet here late at night (o ambient noise) and i just copied a 3gb file from g: to f: - nada.
Should say id love to rip them out but i really cant afford a 9tb SSD.
I wasn't using the F12s. I had 2x A14s at the front of an R5 and had to open door a lot on middle fan setting (R5 had 3 speed fan slider) to get adequate positive airflow through PSU & GPU vent during high load. Made the fans audible.
With the A12s and the FC1 fan controller i have it dialed in so door is shut, its silent and WAY more airflow out the back. (a gale in comparison) I don't believe it just down to the extra airflow from 3x 120mm vs 2x 140mm. A ton more static pressure.
I upgrade & sell my parts regularly and buyers are generally wary of modified gear. (a case is ok)
Its overclocked to 5ghz. I'm happy.
Cheers. I had a spare R5 front i/o kit from Fractal. My fan slider control was playing up and they sent me an i/o kit by mistake. (They rectified by sending a new fan control).
There are a couple of screws that you remove to access the innards. You just pull out the USB3 cable then install in the R6 box. (remove R6 i/o>unscrew box>remove USB2 cables>insert USB3>screw back up.) Bingo!
I think you could do the same from some other case that has similar looking ports. The issue would be: at the front i/o end the 2 usb3 female sockets are separated (its basically a Y cable) and there's no black rubber casing around them. Its cable into bare metal sockets. If you dont find exactly the right one you could prob hack into it with a knife/hacksaw to remove casing.
Regarding dremeling, its a messy dirty job with metal dust everywhere. I wear goggles, gas mask & ear muffs. I don't have a fancy dremel just a cheapy from hardware store. Removing the grill is mostly straight lines with a bit of sculpting on the fan holder curves. Im not skilled at it but it works. Once done get out the vac and wipes & THOROUGHLY clean.
The Noctua fan controller - i had to hacksaw and file the male 4 pin fan cable end down to fit through the side slots. You know the zip tie holders, a quick dremel cut through one at front top right and both cables fit through its hole.