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Comments

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Chipset driver queries - Win 10 / AMD"

  • 15 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for the reply - think we might be at slightly cross purposes though!

I know UEFI/BIOS updates will include some relevant changes for chipsets, and yes I agree you'd always make sure your UEFI was up to date (or as up to date as is suitable for your CPU - since mine's a Ryzen '1' series, I don't need BIOS updates for Raven Ridge/APU/Ryzen '2' series etc) as a first port of call when setting up a PC. Also agree that it's fine to let Windows handle all its own updates, certainly.

My question really is about after that BIOS update/POST/Windows install stage, when you're getting your newly built, working system fully updated ready for daily use.

When building systems I've always been told it's generally good practice, once you're in Windows and using a browser, to manually go fetch all the latest drivers from the websites of the various component manufacturers in your system (so your CPU, graphics card, motherboard etc). That can't be done via UEFI/BIOS.

It can be done via Windows Device Manager if you trust it to find the latest versions from all these disparate manufacturers, but most people say it's better to go direct to the source(s) and do it manually. And that's really what my questions are about - I'm basically wondering why the driver version numbers/publisher/date of drivers listed in my Device Manager don't match up at all with the version numbers/publishers/dates of what I manually downloaded and installed for induvidual components from AMD, Nvidia, Asus, etc etc etc.

For example, if I go to the AMD website and download the latest chipset drivers for B350, it's version 18.10. After installing it, nothing in my Device Manager shows a driver version 18.10, or even one published by AMD. It's all still 'Microsoft 2006' etc with totally random version numbers.

Sorry if my original post wasn't clear. This one probably isn't much clearer tbh!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "WiFi connection drops"

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

I’d start by updating the driver for the WiFi adapter in device manager —> network

Comment reply on Forum Topic "PC started lagging out of nowhere! Please help :("

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Unlikely to be a virus causing FPS drop IMO (unless you’re being used as part of a bot net or something I guess!). Far more likely to be hardware/software issue though.

What storage setup are you running these games from? (HDD/SSD etc) How full are they? Have you checked all SATA data cables are fully pushed in and not slightly loose?

Also, what’s your cooling setup? Do you use an air cooler, an AIO or a custom loop? How are fans/pumps performing? Are you getting 70-80 temps on CPU, GPU or both?

Are you gaming online? WiFi or Ethernet? What else is on the same network, if anything?

Finally, when you get these frame rate drops, what does Task Manager tell you is also going on in the background? It could just be Windows (or other software) updating itself. Have you tried altering the times Windows is allowed to run updates?

Lots of things to explore here! PS your English is great, don’t worry or apologise :)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "RAM Price Fluctuation"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

IF they’re ultimately fined for artificially inflating prices, common sense dictates there’ll be a clause in the settlement to prevent them passing the fine on to consumers by...uh, inflating prices :)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "RAM issues"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Yeah, it’s a weird one - obviously plenty of people can and do get higher speeds on various Ryzen chips, but I guess the thing worth remembering is that ALL ‘fast’ DDR4 RAM is technically just overclocked ‘regular’ (ie. 2133) DDR4 that’s been proven to hold a stable overclock under manufacturer test conditions. So YMMV every time, what’s stated on the box is never really a cast-iron guarantee. Which it kinda should be IMO!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "RAM issues"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Ryzen and fast memory is still a bit of a crapshoot. Getting better slowly but still.

I’ve got the same board as you and 2666mhz memory, but XMP doesn’t like to play with it at full speed either. For some reason it defaults to 2400 as the highest stable speed when I leave settings on ‘auto’.

What BIOS version are you on with the AsRock?

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Can’t boot from thumbdrive. ASUS prime h310m-a bios HELP"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Check your bootable thumb drive is formatted properly (FAT32 I believe?) and download the Windows tool to it again if necessary.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "$100 to who helps."

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

What I/O options do both your GPU and monitor share? What are you currently using, HDMI?

If so I’d try another HDMI cable first, then a different port/cable type - say, DisplayPort if both GPU and monitor have it. It’s entirely possible to damage a port without necessarily killing the hardware it’s attached to.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "CPU Fried?"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

That’s a little warmer than ideal but still well within safe limits.

It is possible you’ve jiggled a SATA or mobo power cable slightly loose anywhere (say, SSD data cable not all the way in)?

What about your RAM, is that reporting back as expected when you run benchmarks/diagnostics?

Could Windows or another program be trying to run a big update in the background that’s failing to complete for any reason (antivirus blocking it, etc)?

What’s your parts list? What specifically happens to performance, and in what circumstances? What does your task manager show for CPU/disk/memory usage during dips?

Quite a bit more info needed ideally! :)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "140mm Case Fans"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Sounds good!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "PC turns off after a second on first few power ups"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice! Yeah give it a go and let us know how you get on, good luck.

(One handy thing would be if you were able to borrow a beefier power supply just to 100% rule that out, but I'm sure you're within limits. I'm almost certain this has to do with RAM speeds/voltages. Think that board stuggled for a while to get anything to run higher than 2400-2666, so your 3200 kit trying to run at full pelt might be the issue.)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "140mm Case Fans"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Cool! Note also that you can't mix-and-match different types of Corsair RGB fan on a single 6-port RGB LED hub (the one that plugs into the Lighting Node Pro/Commander Pro), so if for any reason you wanted both LL and ML fans in a single setup, you'd need to buy them in configurations that gave you two of those little 6-port thingies, rather than buying, say, one three-pack (with a 6-port unit) and a couple additional individual fans of a difefrent type that come without one.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "140mm Case Fans"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

RGB-wise, LL (still) look the nicest IMO, while ML are quieter. Riing are in between on both counts.

Bear in mind that both Thermaltake and Corsair require you to buy into their respective ecosystems (software, hubs, lighting controllers), to some extent, in order to get full functionality from their RGB products - so do your research before picking a team and sticking to it! Both are pretty expensive once you’ve got all the necessary bits and pieces, and you’re kinda locked in once you decide as they don’t play that nicely with other brands (by design).

I like Corsair RGB stuff best overall, but the amount of extra cabling their products force you to deal with is INSANE.

For non-RGB stuff, Noctua and Be Quiet are both great. Fractal’s newer fans are hugely underrated as a slightly less premium priced option too - incredibly quiet in my rig, and they look very classy in that grown-up understated way that’s just as badass as a unicorn disco. ;)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "PC turns off after a second on first few power ups"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Assuming your PSU power rating leaves you with plenty of headroom for all your components and your overclock - which I can’t tell without a complete parts list - I’ll bet it’s the RAM or the overclock causing the issue. Either way it sounds like a voltage problem to me.

I suspect the board is attempting to fire everything up at the settings you’ve told it to, whereupon it detects a voltage issue and quickly shuts down, then (if it’s rebooting on its own) tries again at slightly lower voltage, and so on and so on, until it finds a workable level.

Unclear without more info whether it’s more likely to be the RAM or the OC, but if it’s the RAM, it could be a combo of your board and Ryzen struggling to hit the required voltage for the speed you’re trying to run it at (even if it’s just the stated top speed for your kit).

(Are you on an AsRock board by any chance? Just a hunch - I have a similar issue with my AsRock if I try to achieve my stated RAM speeds via XMP.)

Either way, how fast is your RAM ‘out of the box’, what speed have you got it set to, and have you overclocked it and/or enabled an XMP profile in the BIOS to hit that full speed (or higher)?

When you DO eventually boot successfully into Windows, download hwinfo or similar and look what speed your RAM is actually running at stable. Is it the same as the speed you’re asking it to boot with in the BIOS? I suspect it’ll be lower.

If any of that rings any bells, I’d try going back into BIOS and either setting RAM profile to ‘auto’ or pick an XMP profile with a slower speed; you’re usually given a couple of options.

Failing that I’d dial back your OC and see if that fixes it. I’d start with the RAM investigation though, as your OC isn’t exactly brutal. But if you’re on a less robust board, like maybe a B350 or a lower-end X370, an OC’d 1700x with a factory-OC’d 1080ti and fast RAM could easily be nudging it out of its voltage ‘comfort zone’

Or possibly even pushing the PSU a bit too hard. 650w isn’t loads for that build, depending what other components & peripherals you’ve got hooked up as well - although I’d be surprised if you’re hitting >520w really.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "How strong is the Meshify C Glass panel?"

  • 19 months ago
  • 2 points

It’s a LOT more durable than acrylic, which looks like it’s been dragged though a cactus patch about an hour after unboxing it. If you want a window, go glass.

https://youtu.be/T17lYoYlStg

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Need mouse"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

I love my Logitech G203 Prodigy and it’s cheaper than that. Best in class for its price IMO. It’s on the smaller side but not ‘tiny’.

Nice subtle RGB (optional) and the sensor and overall feel of it in action is just lovely.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "New Build - Audio Problems"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Hmm, funny - mine does exactly the same! (i.e works fine if it’s slightly pulled out). So unless the whole batch installed in multiple different Fractal cases models was faulty, which seems unlikely, must be something we’re both missing here.

Wonder if it’s worth dropping Fractal a line?

Glad you’re kinda up and running for now anyway. I gave up worrying about it in the end, as I switched to headphones with a different jack and started using the rear I/O which seemed better quality (albeit a bit less convenient). It is a bit annoying though - honestly thought it was just mine that did this, so it’s kinda both good/bad to hear it isn’t! ;)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Hi, need help on motherboards"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Yep - although no idea what BIOS version this board might ship with in Q2 of 2018 (or how far behind the latest stable version that'll be), so it may still benefit hugely from an update when the OP gets theirs.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Good AM4 mATX Boards?"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Fair enough, totally - I'm not in the US and have never bought from Newegg, so I certainly wouldn't have any opinion on buying there. I know they're hugely influential and popular sellers.

Ps, slightly edited my above reply as on reading it back it came across a bit too pro-Amazon...I'm certainly not that loyal! ;)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Is there a point in future-proofing?"

  • 19 months ago
  • 0 points

Not necessarily future-proofing as such. For one thing, PSUs perform best - ie. most efficiently, and tend to live longer - when taxed at roughly 50-60% load, so there's that too. For a ~350w system, a 550w PSU would help you stay right in that nice comfy 'green zone'.

Also bear in mind you may want to add additional fans, storage, hubs, lights, USB devices etc in future, long before you actually feel the need to update a core component like GPU or CPU. Those sorts of more peripheral add-ons will all put an additional draw, albeit a small one in each case, on your PSU - and before long you can easily end up running it at 85%+ capacity without really making any significant upgrades to your rig if you don't start out with plenty of headroom.

It's always sensible to go with the best and beefiest you can afford when it comes to PSUs - it's the heart of your system, after all, and if it craps out then you're kinda done until you can replace it. Plus of course, it could even damage other stuff if you're really unlucky.

Finally, be aware that nearly all PSU brands have components in them made by other companies. That's what tends to dictate the PSU's 'tier' rating: it's all about the quality of components (especially capacitors and the stability of the 12v rail delivery) used in a given model from a given brand.

Do your research and find out which models by which brands have been outfitted the best, versus budget models sold by those same brands that likely include cheaper parts made by less exacting collaborators. This is a useful list to get you started - not 100% up to date in April 2018, but still a very handy guide: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/

As others have mentioned, the EVGA Supernova G3 550w would be an excellent choice for a rig of your size. They're very well made and all the (fully modular - great for easier management) cables are nicely sleeved, which makes a huge difference to the finished look and feel of your setup. The fact that it comes with such a crazy long warranty is no coincidence! :)

If you can't stretch to one of those, I'd say stick with 550w and certainly don't dip below tier 3 on the link above for peace of mind.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "URGENT! Memory RAM related question."

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Something worth remembering with DDR4 is that faster speeds are technically all overclocks; it's just that whatever speed is printed on the box is an overclock that's been passed as stable for that module under the manufacturer's test conditions, whatever they may be.

Which is to say that it's never actually guaranteed you'll hit those speeds on your system, even if it's printed right there on the DIMM. So basically don't hang everything on being able to acheive the stated memory clocks when you decide to throw down an extra [x] dollars on an insanely fast kit - at least not versus one that is known to work, broadly speaking, at 'acceptable' speeds on the rig your building.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Good AM4 mATX Boards?"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

I seem to have been lucky with my AsRock ab350m Pro4, but yeah that sudden streak of terrible reviews and reports of freezing scared me too - I'd already ordered and received mine, and wasn't yet able to build with it because I was waiting on a back-ordered GPU (Ryzen 1st gen, so no onboard graphics). So far, though, so good - well, apart from some slightly annoying issues getting my RAM to run at its 'stock' overclock speeds, but that's pretty much par for the course with 1st gen Ryzen; not strictly board-specific.

Based on my experience alone I'd recommend it, but I'm glad I went with Amazon as they actually pulled the board from sale for a while when all those bad reviews started coming in (there was a notice up on the product page about them 'reviewing some problems' or words to that effect). Then it went back on sale about a month later, at which point I bought mine - I took the downtime to mean they'd probably sent a bad batch back to AsRock, and waited on a new batch of confirmed good ones. Either way their returns policy is pretty bulletproof, which gave me a bit of added confidence.

I've also heard good things about the MSI Mortar Arctic - seems to get better reviews than the standard Mortar from what I've seen, although I'm fairly sure the only real difference is aesthetics.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Failed Ryzen overclocking, need help!"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

What BIOS version are you in on the AsRock? If you haven't updated it since getting the board, look at the little white chip somewhere above PCIE 1 slot just below left-centre of the board, and you'll see it's printed with the BIOS version it shipped with.

In my experience with this AsRock board (the ab350m Pro4 mATX version, to be specific - is yours the full ATX?) can be funny about saving and locking in settings sometimes, but updating the BIOS seems to have helped. Don't forget that you may need to upgrade to a bridge BIOS before jumping to the most recent from an older version if you haven't already.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "New Build - Audio Problems"

  • 19 months ago
  • 2 points

This sounds exactly like the problems I had while trying to use 'phone compatible' headphones via my case's front panel audio output (also a Fractal). In that scenario, the issue turned out to be that my 'phone and PC'-compatible headphones used a TRRS 3.5mm jack (to allow for inline mic input when in phone use), which my front panel audio on the Fractal case didn't like. Switched them out for a pair of headphones with a regular TRS 3.5mm jack, and problem solved.

(TRS vs TRRS visual reference: https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-3-5-mm-jack-in-mobiles-and-laptops )

Don't forget to right-click RealTek HD Audio Manager in your system tray and open Sound Manager, then click on the small yellow folder icon in the top right, and make sure 'disable front panel audio' is checked (even if it is, uncheck and re-check it). I can't remember exactly what this achieved for me - especially as by the time I learned to do that, I was already using my far superior motherboard rear I/O for audio out, rather than front panel - but it definitely proved useful.

Apologies if this is all super basic advice but it's what i did when I was having what sounds like a VERY similar audio experience, and it worked for me.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Question"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

I've no idea, sorry buddy!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "PC won't turn on!"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

This

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Performance not good enough."

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

40-ish FPS in more demanding titles with a 1060 3GB and a Ryzen 1200 sounds about right to me.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Question"

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

And just for balance I'm gonna put a shout in for the Ryzen. :)

I believe the difference you'll see in editing tasks is likely bigger than the difference you'll see in typical gameplay (unless you're planning on using a super high-end GPU to really max out every possible FPS).

Captaincow285 is exactly right, though - and in reality it's what best serves your uses. If you're gonna be doing 95% gaming and 5% editing, sure, probably the Intel. But if it's more like 50/50 work & play, I'd think Ryzen might be the better all-rounder of the two.

Also, don't forget to consider future upgrade paths - check out what other parts you might need to replace or keep (particularly motherboards) if you decide to upgrade to a higher spec Intel or Ryzen chip in a couple of years, and how it might impact on your budget.

Both good though, you'll dig it either way!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "New Ryzen Build randomly freezing/locks up"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

ab350m Pro 4, right?

There’s a known issue with a batch of them causing lock-ups and freezes. Check out the AsRock tech support forums (largely run by AsRock owners helping each other troubleshoot, FYI, rather than AsRock themselves - to contact the company directly you need to open a ticket with customer services) for multiple discussions/help on it.

http://forum.asrock.com/forum_topics.asp?FID=12&title=amd-motherboards

Ultimately, AsRock & third party vendors have been accepting a lot of returns on a particular batch of this board. You may be best off investigating that route before you miss any returns window.

I’d be willing to bet your CPU, GPU, software etc are just fine, and it’s your motherboard causing this issue. You’re certainly not the first ab350m owner to complain of it, not by a long shot. Great little board when you get a good one, but the failure (specifically freezing) rate of a certain batch has been unacceptably high.

Comment reply on gomark's Completed Build: Patience, Quincey! (1080p work & games)

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

You mean building your own in general? Or this specific build?

I’d definitely recommend building your own if it’s something you’d enjoy and you’re up for doing all the necessary research/learning. Otherwise the high prices of certain components at the moment mean it’s not always that much cheaper to DIY it, so you kinda have to really want to do it.

As for this specific build, it works great for me - but I don’t really play any esports titles (I’m not sure what DD TO is!). You could probably save some money on a slightly cheaper CPU and GPU if you’re mainly into esports stuff.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Asrock ab350 pro4 with Ryzen 3 2200g will not boot"

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

You don't have a GPU listed, that's why you're getting no picture. Did you intend to buy a Ryzen 2200, rather than a 1200?

edit: just seen you already reaslised this, never mind :)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Computer won’t turn on"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

First, check all cables are fully inserted into both the motherboard and psu.

Then check your RAM is properly seated all the way down at both ends, both sticks.

If still no joy, test with one RAM stick at a time, moving it from one slot to the next. Then do the same with the second stick. If it boots with one stick but not the other, or with certain slots populated but not others, you’ll be able to work out if a RAM module or DIMM slot is bad.

Problems staying powered on for more than a second or two are often RAM-related in my experience.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "How do I avoid damaging the motherboard when building a new PC?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Electrical components can only short out by coming into direct contact when there’s current passing through them - so yes, it just means when its plugged in and turned on. That’s what the motherboard standoffs that come with your case are for - they stop the motherboard resting against the metal of the case when it’s powered on. You cant short it out while installing it without power flowing.

If you’re using a mATX board in a case with pre-installed standoffs for ATX, you’ll probably need to move a couple of them. You may or may not be given a little tool to do that with as part of your case accessory kit, or you may need to get one.

Static wont be an issue as long as you regularly touch the metal of the case (or a radiator, or something else metal), and don’t build in socks on a carpet. Ideally do it on a hard surface in bare feet and you’ll have no issue. Besides, the worst static normally does is fry a USB port or something, not nuke your entire motherboard.

The CPU is super easy to insert, requires no pressure except when pushing the locking lever back into place. The chip itself just drops right into place.

As the poster above says, dont worry. Youre far more likely to make a mistake if you stress out; its really not that hard and this stuff is delicate but its not ridiculously fragile. Dont forget components and entire PCs get shipped all over the world.

Have fun!

Comment reply on gomark's Completed Build: Patience, Quincey! (1080p work & games)

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

Thanks! For such an outwardly mechanical process, it can be an oddly emotional/philosophical journey, right?

I guess that's partly due to being on a (relatively) tight budget; everything matters triple when you have to save up and build slowly, and when you can't really afford any crazy mistakes. ;)

It certainly led to a lot more "if you don't laugh, you might cry" moments than I was expecting, that's for sure!

Good luck with yours, hope you post it here when done.

Comment reply on gomark's Completed Build: Patience, Quincey! (1080p work & games)

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

Thanks buddy. Not actually my first build, but my first on here and the first one I've done for myself that wasn't purely a straight-up, no frills work machine. Enjoyed doing it, and enjoying using it since. It's quick and quiet, which were my two main priorities after affordability. :)

Totally agree on Fractal's cases - doing this build has really given me the bug for more in future, and as things stand right now I'm gonna take some hardcore convincing to use any other case manufacturer. We'll see though!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Need Video Editing Software"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Funnily enough there's a 40% off Steam deal right now on Vegas Movie Studio 15, which I gather is basically like a simplified version of the full package - dunno if that would do for the OP's needs or not, but here:

http://store.steampowered.com/app/785160/VEGAS_Movie_Studio_15_Steam_Edition/

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Differences in Corsair Case Fans?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

Yup! :)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "How to avoid glare while shooting PC pictures?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Good luck, hope you get some sweet shots!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Differences in Corsair Case Fans?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

I think all the Corsair LL, HD and ML fans (and of course the SP versions the OP already has) are technically classed as 'static pressure' fans, but they work equally well for case cooling/general airflow. They're pretty decent for overall flow, although not the quietest ever. (Certainly not the loudest either, mind you.)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Differences in Corsair Case Fans?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

Definitely worth bearing this in mind, although i'm not sure it'll make a huge difference if the equilibrium is only off by a single 120 vs a 140 - as long as you've got an approximate balance going on, you're probably all good. It's really more an issue with dust etc when you're pushing out LOTS more air than you're pulling in. With 3 in and 3 out, you'll be close to balanced even if one or two of the outs are slightly more powerful fans. But yeah, you're right, the closer to equal you can get, the better in general.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Differences in Corsair Case Fans?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

140s require lower speeds to push the same amount of air, so they tend to run quieter. If you can fit one in the back and it's within budget, then no real reason not to...although as the poster below pointed out, you ideally want to balance in-out airflow as much as possible, so don't load all the outflows with 140s and only have 120s coming in, or you could potentially end up with dust issues.

One thing I'd probably want to bear in mind myself is whether or not the lighting patterns run at the same speeds around a wider circumference of fan - I have no idea tbh, as I've only got the 120s. Some of the sequential effects that move from fan to fan might look a bit odd if they go faster around a 120 than a 140? I dunno! :)

I suspect that with three mobo headers and six fans, you'll likely want three 2-way splitters. Or - yes, alternatively (and tidier) - the Commander Pro works as a six-fan hub that doesn't connect to the mobo at all. It's SATA powered straight from the PSU, and controls speeds through Corsair Link software. It'd be a slightly more expensive option, but far neater for six fans IMO; less of a cable management headache in the front of your case, for one thing.

With six Corsair fans you'll have 12 cables (each fan has two; a power cable and an RGB cable) - the six power cables would all go into the Commander Pro, while the six RGB cables would all go into the RGB Fan Hub, which in turn connects via a single cable into RGB slot 1 on the Commander Pro. (Leaving you one RGB slot free for e.g. an RGB strip or whatever...not that you'll need it with six RGB fans on the go!).

NB: you don't need a Lighting Node Pro if you have a Commander Pro, as the CP already effectively has one built in.

Also worth bearing in mind - the Commander Pro uses one USB port on the mobo, but gives you two, so you end up +1 internal USB port if that's of any use to you.

The only other thing I'd take into consideration is that I don't believe you can mix-and-match HD, LL and ML fans using the same RGB hub, but it's unlikely you'd be doing that anyway so it's a bit of a non-issue.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "How to avoid glare while shooting PC pictures?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 3 points

Angle the shot so that you're snapping it at closer to 45 degrees, rather than 90 degrees head-on to the glass. Doing that, the stuff you see reflected will be whatever's at the opposite 45 degree angle to where you are, so try to make that be a flat dull background.

Have your light source pointing towards the PC, but also at an angle to reduce glare (similar principle; angle your case such that you can't see the light source itself - say, a lamp or a window - reflected in the glass from where you're taking the shot). Although it's somehwat counterintuitive, you should have light pointing towards the PC, rather than coming from behind it, if you want to minimise reflections because it'll help darken what's being reflected - if the light source is coming from behind the PC, it'll hit whatever is being reflected by the glass and make it reflect brighter.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Need Video Editing Software"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Vegas Pro is a popular choice. I believe Humble did a really cheap deal on the 2015-16 version a while back, which has obviously ended now, but it might be worth sniffing around for any unused keys being resold at a profit - should still be cheaper than premium pricing for the latest version. Steam also does occasional deals on Vegas stuff.

I'm not a very regular user though, so by all means ask around for other recommendations.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Differences in Corsair Case Fans?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 6 points

I'd also add that Corsair's LL ('Light Loop'), ML ('Magnetic Levitation') and HD fans - essentially all from the generation after the SP120s you already have - are a bit finicky when it comes to compatibility with RGB-control hardware and software. It'll help you avoid wasting money if you know exactly how you're going to set them up before you start buying.

To control the RGB via software (Corsair Link), you'll need BOTH an RGB Fan Hub AND EITHER the Lighting Node Pro OR the Commander Pro (the latter is basically a six-fan hub with a Lighting Node Pro built in).

Your buying options across all fans in the LL, ML and HD ranges, if I recall, are something like this:

  1. Individual fans, one at a time, with nothing else in the pack
  2. Individual fans, one at a time, with an RGB Fan Hub in the pack
  3. Two/three fan kit with an RGB Fan Hub
  4. Two-three fan kit with an RGB Fan Hub AND a Lighting Node Pro
  5. Lighting Node Pro on its own
  6. Commander pro on its own

You can't go for option 1) if you haven't already got the RGB Fan Hub via options 2)-4) - you NEED one of those RGB Fan Hubs, regardless of how you're planning to control your setup, if you want the lighting to work at all. As long as you have got one fan and one RGB Fan Hub, the lighting will work in default patterns - but if that's ALL you've got, you won't have any further control over it, software or otherwise.

If you want to be able to change the look and pattern of the lighting, you'll also need either option 4), 5) or 6) - the Lighting Node Pro and the Commander Pro are the components that Corsair Link software talks to. For example, in my case I've just got one Corsair HD fan, but to control the lighting via software I had to make sure I got the single HD fan packaged with an RGB Fan Hub, and then add in a Commander Pro or a Lighting Node Pro for software control.

I wouldn't have bothered with all that for the sake of one pretty RGB fan, obviously...except that I already needed a fan hub anyway, as I had way more case fans than motherboard headers - so once I'd decided to get the Commander Pro primarily for use as a fan hub for ALL my case fans, I then realised that it would enable me to add a Corsair HD fan packaged with the RGB Fan Hub, and that would give me full software control of its RGB. So I went for that.

Confused yet? :) It's a bit of a nightmare but it does look great once it's all sorted.

It's basically a symptom of Corsair (and other companies; NZXT do similar with their RGB stuff and control hubs/software) trying to make you buy fully into their product range when you decide to go with them - it becomes difficult/prohobitively expensive to mix and match outside of a single brand. Obviously if you're planning on putting a bunch of Corsair RGB fans in your case then the additional investment in other bits and pieces is more 'worth it'...but YMMV on that score, of course!)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Asrock z370 killer ski turning on/off in a cycle"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

The power supply is working fine when connecting to my old gigabyte z68xp-ud3 motherboard and works fine with chassis fans connected.

What rating/wattage is that power supply, and are you still well within its limits with all your new components?

I then unplugged my chassis fans and it would boot for about 30 seconds and then turn off (this occurs repeatedly in a cycle by itself until i turn off the psu) there would be no display appearing on my monitor either.

During this phase of a 30-second boot - if you can get it to do that again - is there any way you can get to BIOS/UEFI (ie. by hitting Del key repeatedly while it's booting for 30 secs)?

Reason I ask: my monitor doesn't actually fire up out of standby until a signal is detected, and then there's a brief ramp-up period for it, so the fact that I've got Windows intalled on SSD means boot times are so quick that I usually don't get to see the BIOS access screen (because it appears and disappears before the monitor is ready to display an image).

If that's happening with you, and it turns out you CAN actually get into BIOS during one of these 30-second boot/POST attempts, you should be able to set your RAM to auto/lower voltage and speeds than it's currently trying to serve up as default or XMP profiles. My AsRock board (a b350, unlike yours) gives me multiple restart issues if I try to run my RAM at its stated out-of-the-box speeds, and i currently have to have it downcranked to 'auto' (2400MHz) to get a smooth startup.

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Xmp Profile crash?"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Cool thanks, I'll consider doing that. Lots of the advice in the AsRock forums seems to suggest not upgrading to 4.XX BIOS if you're running a Ryzen 1st gen CPU and you've got things stable, but I might give it a go if I upgrade to faster RAM in future (or if I run into any stability issues with 3.40).

As it stands, the jump from 2400MHz at 'auto' settings to 2666MHz via XMP or manual inputs isn't really gonna net me much of a gain, so I'l probably stick with 3.40 for now since it seems to be rock solid for my 1600 in all other regards. Always tempted to update when a new version drops, but I've learned it's often better to hold fire until the early adopter reports start coming through in numbers!

Comment reply on Forum Topic "RAM naming meaning"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Gawd bless that big ol' 'series of tubes'! ;)

Comment reply on Forum Topic "8gb for video editing"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

+1 for more SSD room, particularly for editing video files. Unless they're being stored externally, 128GB isn't going to go very far in terms of high res video clip handling...

Comment reply on Forum Topic "Best gpu and cpu combo for 144hz 1080p"

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Bear in mind that you don't necessarily need to max out your monitor's refresh rate (in FPS terms) in order to enjoy the benefits of 144Hz over a 60Hz panel.

A GTX 1070 will give you 100+ FPS in many current AAA titles at 1080p, which is going to be perceptibly smoother than you'd see on a 60Hz panel, even if you're not pushing right up against the monitor's refresh rate limits every time.

Any FPS over 144 will be somewhat surplus to requirements with a 144Hz panel, so I'd say a GTX 1080 is basically overkill for a solid 1080p setup. Personally I'd go for the better CPU.

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