980 or 980ti?
I love when websites take a site that looks and works fine and ruins it for no reason. Although I assume the new layout is designed for an insane amount of ad space, based on the empty areas on the wings and top of the site.
9700k or 9900k. That simple.
SLI stopped being worth after the 980TI's. I wouldn't bother on newer cards.
If you just want a second portrait monitor I'd go with something basic like a BenQ BL2205PT 21.5".
I have their BL2405 but I think 24" in portrait is too much.
What do you have now?
oh wow that seems crazy then. I'd probably RMA it.
It really should feel that hard at all, it's just a basic mechanism, it's not going to bear major weight. I'd only loosely tighten it.
If your PC can handle mounting for the cooler I would go with the AORUS 2080 Ti XTREME WATERFORCE.
I'm planning a GPU upgrade for Cyberpunk 2077 from a pair of 980TI's in SLI with this and a new case like a Meshify C or S2 and EVGA CLC 280 cooler for my 9900k.
ASUS won't do anything about a CPU made by another company.
You bought a 2080ti without knowing why it has two power connectors?
To work properly you need to connect both power cables.
When you only have one cable it can't perform at specifications.
When you use both cables it can run at full speed, which is why it was hotter.
Check some reviews on the SN750, and if they come up fine, they are basically identical and you can pick either.
Define R6 USB-C.
VRM's, features like more sata ports, m.2 slots, if it has multiple network ports or if it has higher speed ports, that kind of thing.
It definitely fits 3x120mm fans in the front, I assume the 140mms only fit 2 because the PSU shroud prevents a 3rd 140mm.
If you don't want to go full overkill, then the 9700k will be practically within a few percentage points of the 9900k without being costly.
Either of those chips you want a high tier Z390 board to go along with it.
It's bad. Just spend the money on a slightly better WD Black or Samsung 970 Evo Plus.
You should not do three fans on a single header.
I'd throw in a WD Blue SSD.
easy. any rear or top fans = blow out of the case. any front fans = blow into the case.
Once the cache fills it's performance tanks.
It had a good place in the market back before Samsung dropped their prices, but now it's not a great value option. I'd rather get a bigger Sata SSD because at least you get more capacity for the lower performance.
good luck with the new cables.
You don't get power cables with the video card you get them with the power supply.
According to the manufacturer page for the power supply you get 2 cables that have an 8/6 connector.
They should have a label "PCI-E". Check in the box or the little cable bag that came with the PSU. Then just plug it into the PSU and the labelled side into the Video Card.
Up over 95c+ is usually something that's goign to throw up warnings.
But a 9900k shouldn't get up over 80 unless you're really hammering it in real world.
If it's 5ghz all cores that temp during stress testing is about right.
That cooler is fine. You'd probably need a custom WC loop to get better temps than it.
What temp do you get doing a cinebench all core test?
The WD Black's are not that bad especially compared to the cheap Crucial P1 and Intel 660P drives. I'd rank them slightly below the Samsung 970 Evo Plus. I wouldn't bother changing it as your boot drive.
If you just want cheap capacity while still being and SSD, I think the best option would be a WD Blue in 1tb or 2tb (they are practically identical in Price per GB).
Keep your OS & most important games & programs on the Black and leave everything else on the Blue. You probably won't notice much of a difference.
If you really really want another NVME drive just go with a Samsung 970 Evo Plus.
The WD Black NVME is a good SSD but it isn't quite as good as a 970 Evo Plus, it's still a very good NVME SSD if you want to save a little bit of money compared to the Evo Plus.
However, what I would do is this:
970 Evo Plus in the Rear Slot.
WD Blue in the Front Slot. You will be able to get a much bigger capacity of this than if you bought 2 NVME drives.
It will give you the best combination of speed for the OS and important programs, and capacity (while still be very fast compared to 7200 RPM HDDs).
It also means you don't drop PCI-E lanes from the GPU (which I think I read when looking at the page for the motherboard).
I have 970 Evo's for my Operating System and my most used games/programs, and I also havee an 840 Evo 2.5" Sata based SSD in my system for bulk storage and it's fine for stuff that isn't as important.
Looking at the specs on the asus website, both slots are capable of NVME drives, but the front slot along with the audio card thing is also capable of Sata.
If you just want a simple option, get 2 of the Crucial P1 500GB drives instead as they are NVME drives. They are about as cheap as the MX 500 and they will work in both slots. They aren't great performers especially once their cache fills. They only really exist as a super cheap option for people who have to use a NVME stick but can't afford the more expensive brands.
What I would recommend though is:
*Rear Slot: a Samsung 970 Evo Plus or WD Black WDS500G2X0C with your operation system on it.
*Front Slot: Crucial MX500 or WD Blue SSD.
That will give the best combination of speed (NVME for your OS) and cost per gb (cheaper Sata drive for storage). Keep your OS and your most played games/utilities/programs on the Samsung/WD Black, and then bulk storage and less important games, things like movies, music etc on the MX500/WD Blue Sata SSD.
If you don't have any SSD already, I would recommend re-installing your operating system onto it via the normal installation disk/stick program, during that process it'll setup the MBR etc.
If you're adding a second SSD, then just install it and use disk management to setup the partition in your OS.
yeah that's just in windows
If you just want to use the SSD as a storage drive not an OS, you'll probably need to use Disk Management to set up the partition for the SSD but that is pretty simple and that should be all you need to do.
860 Evo for SSD's, and Toshiba 7200 drives for HDD.
It doesn't work in the open layout. That layout is open.
I had the same thing with my R5 when I rebuilt it recently, I had it open, wanted to put a optical drive in, but it was too much hassle to try and put the enclosure bay back in so I just left it.
Get a Define R5 or R6 and put it on one of these:
If you're somewhere else on the planet you want one that's about 580mm long and 290mm wide.
It's what I've done and it makes it so much easier to get out from under the desk, open it up, or install things on the rear IO.
The WD Blue and Crucial MX500.
If you want to spend a bit more for an NVME drive then the 970 Evo Plus.
There are downsides.
The €30 difference between the 660p and the WD NVME drive is not worth the downsides for the 660p.
If you want a cheap, capacity drive then get an 860 Evo or one of the other Sata SSD's on the market.
The 660p is AWFUL. It is NOT worth the money being saved. It has terrible endurance and slows down massively once you fill up it's SLC cache the performance tanks. It's niche in the marketplace was destroyed when Samsung aggressively lowered the prices on their existing 970's and their new 970 Evo Plus models.
Get the highest capacity 970 Evo Plus that you can afford.
If you want to save money or need a larger capacity, then get an 860 Evo (either 2.5" Sata or M.2 Sata) and just accept it won't be quite as fast as an NVME drive.
It's better to estimate a little bit over. I wouldn't go any lower than a 60gb partition though.
970 Evo Plus 500g split into two partitions:
OS Partition - 80gb
Utilities - 420gb
1tb 970 Evo Plus
The 60gb SSD you could use as a place where downloads go initially, maybe music if you have an on-disk collection.
Get an $80 two bay Raid 1 NAS and stick the 250gb drives in a Raid 1 for backup and if you get full, you could switch to larger drives.
If you want just maximum capacity, 860 Evo 2.5" drives are really cheap, you could get a 1tb and a 2tb for $450.
I install those onto the utilities partition.
I keep the OS partition just for the OS, any programs that I can't change install directory, and the USER directories.
I actually use a 92gb partition for my OS but I've only used half that hence recommending 70gb.
Most utilities are absolutely tiny compared to games.
Just split the drive into a 70gb OS partition and give the rest to a single partition you put everything else in.
Be judicious in what games you keep installed on the ~430gb partition and you shouldn't have much problem getting what you need on it.
I'd bump up to a 550w just to be on the safe side.
never heard of them
9700k, or if you want to go full bore, 9900k.
Can you stretch to a 9700k?
Why do you want to upgrade? You're not likely to see a huge amount of real world benefit.
That said, the 870 is a quite better SSD than the Sandisk, and the 970 Evo Plus is a far better drive than either IF you have an NVME PCIE M.2 slot.
If you're adding a second drive then get the 860 if you need capacity or the 970 if you want super fast speed loading times.
Unless it'd be a major hassle, I'd also recommend putting your OS onto the new drive regardless of which one (especially if you got the 970 Evo Plus).
Noctua if you don't care about colours (ie, theres' no window), or the Corsair Maglev RGB if you do.