Yeah all the asus 450 had lacking vrms, if you are going to run big cores or OC its just not good. The x470 prime I got the vrm is much nicer. For a 450 I did not like the asus...if you need to OC or run a big cpu. I looked hard at the carbon, in the end I went 470 thinking it may last longer in the future and I rather get a nicer mobo I hopefully don't have to upgrade as soon. Even then I leaned asus mostly for the bios/OC results I saw on it, for the 2400g I have it in it right now and memory OC it needs (and had the feature set I wanted). But MSI is not bad there either.
I have the same mobo and when I researched it everyone said it should work fine with the new processors, but sure it will be limited to the pci lanes it has and possibly 2000 core counts, etc, not sure why anyone would expect it to support everything new cpu may do with a mobo designed long before those new cpu came out. The vrm is almost the same as the rog strix version, it seemed to be one of the best x470 without going ultra on cost and lot of people OC stuff on the net with it and had good results. I had my memory running at 3600 in a few minutes with a 2400g. That said its my busy time of year now and not had time to game on it, and had to track down a router issue that locked some of my PC off the net. Always something. That was another reason I found this to be a good board for me is it has most features now, but in the future if it needs upgrading then I wont lose the cost of a top of line mobo. I could run a 2700x on it for while then upgrade later if it has issue with 3000 processors.
Right, and you can look at the mobo wifi and see how fast it is compared to wifi add in card/usb/etc. My PCs at home are all wired, but maybe you take it gaming or live in a place you don't want to bother wiring it, so wifi may be important to you and its worth looking at what mobo offer. You might find one that fits your needs, or you might want another for other reasons without wifi and then use add in wifi with it. Wifi is just like a phone or tablet uses to connect to local internet router with no wire (not via a cell phone system).
Well I did solve this issue by flashing new firmware, but the number was barely higher than what was in it. Not sure what happened it just would not issue IP to those PC via cat6, everything wifi was fine. I reset and unplugged and all that, everything looked good on router but it would not give them an IP address. Now it works fine like always. I had major family issues come up and not had time to get the new router setup and figure out where to put it. Its a great router if you need something cheap and not a ton of data, and has good range considering the difficult placement I have it in right now. Plus you can schedule reboots.
Interesting, I know the controller is in the cpu but is the chipset/design in the motherboard going to affect this for cpu upgrades?
Usually best to use the 2nd router as an extender, it just gathers signals for the primary router who does the dhcp and security. You could also try putting your current router high as possible, closer to the ceiling if possible and see if it helps signal.
I went through this and ended up getting a Asus Prime x470 pro. I also looked at the msi carbon b450, rog strix x470 (basically a prime plus a few features), taichi, and the cheaper steel legend and tomahawk. I really wanted a x470 for the features and possible future upgrades as I intend to run this a long time. I liked the prime features and it went on sale so I grabbed it. Also wanted to run a 2400g for a while and the asus is said to be good at overclocking memory. In a few minutes I had it running 3600. Another issue is I really did not need wifi. I liked the msi b450 boards they tend to have better vrm if you ever OC, everyone has good x470 mostly depends on what features/budget you want.
I know people that run their car stereo with a tablet or phone, of course you need a screen to do that.
You might look at used office furniture places. Actually a friend of mine gave me a desk about that size I am using, its huge. It takes up some footage. Its a little rough in spots from being moved/stored but nice oak finish and it was free at the time so I took it (and could be refinished). Have a 27 monitor on it and two PCs and have lots of room, it is a crawl when I have to get under it for wiring purposes. But it is certainly a business desk and looks nice, that is what I would search for. Also have an old cubicle reception desk here that works really nice, I'm a real believer in old office stuff. It can take some digging or a friend to find it.
Right find the name/model on the motherboard and look up a manual. Most mobo the plugs are on the bottom edge sometimes front edge, the usb usually only fit what they are. The buttons tend to be the ones you have to get right, some motherboard they are labelled.
I built a new prime x470 system and installed week old copy of win10, downloaded new drivers and flashed the bios new everything went great, went and downloaded the aura first software on it and it did the same thing it wont run on brand new win10. I posted and they said it is like that try to delete and re install. It was a flashback to windows 3.1 I could not believe it. I turned it off in bios and will get back to it some day.
Yeah that is no good, could run into wearing out fans as the small ones are usually cheaper built. Might as well get a better cooling one, cases are pretty reasonable anyway.
I would worry about vrm heatsinks, unless you can just do the top and they have bare fins on the sides of them.
The idea with a lot of case fans is they can run slow and quiet, but you get a lot of flow because you have so many. So a cheaper or slower and quiet fan should work for most normal applications, if you OC a lot and make a lot of heat then maybe they need upgrading (or your case does not have a lot of fans). You can have other problems like noisy cheap fans that rattle or something, or does it have a controller to change speed maybe you need that. Some people have a low/high speed on the case and they only turn it up for gaming. Some want to have them on the motherboard so they are controlled, depends on what you want. Be careful as noted by others fans can get expensive quickly so make sure you really need those expensive fans, I'd try what you get first unless you want RGB/appearance fans. Really you can put fans in any time if you are not happy so nothing to worry about. I bought a DIYPC case and the 3 stock fans in it seem to work fine, quiet, and good air flow out the back. I run all of them off the motherboard because it has a lot of fan headers, though cooler fans are more important to run on the mobo.
Yes I got my Asus Prime x470 to run memory at 3600 in a few minutes, its 3733 memory. Not had time to try for more.
Yes I would second that, you can get small fans. I bought a small one I think under 2" and a fan hub with a lo/hi speed for a few dollars and put in a sff it works fine. If you want a new case that is ok, but a fan or two can really help if you just need cooling.
Lol, so am I. You find out how flexible you are, while wearing a respirator mask and head light. I found I could hold the hose and blow it back into the eaves full depth right to the roof and build back to me in the center, do other side, then move down a few bays and do the center I was in, repeat. Then when I looked back it sank down a few inches on its own, so I didn't even use the air baffles in there. Mine was only about 4' high in the center, it was fun when I was done and had about 20" of insulation to wade through and yes staying on top of the joists the whole time.
I got busy and a nasty cold on top of that, but thanks a bunch for the answers Gilroar. When I get time I'll put a benchmark on it and see what its doing. Eventually I will upgrade to a cpu but 2400g should work for now.
So with the x470 if I do not use x1 pcie slot 1 or 3 it will do pci x2 on the second m.2. I mean, you don't want to buy a second m.2 that does fast nvme if it can only do sata3 right, you might as well get a cheaper sata m.2. I don't know how fast pci x2 (pci 3.0 x2 lanes) is with nvme, one post I found said 1970mb/s max, so possibly an intel 660 at 1800mb/s spec would still max out on it. My main m.2 is a gammix s11 3200mb/s, the only drive in it with a 2400g.
While with the rog strix b450 you can't even use the second m.2 with an APU, and with a CPU the second one cuts your gpu lanes to x8 which could be an issue if you have a big gpu, I know you can run a rx580 on 8 lanes not sure where it starts to limit it. If I understand correctly, thanks for the posts Gilroar.
I do a lot of things that save me money and actually are green, like hitting all the stores in one trip. I fix things and get more life out of them, like this old c2q PC I upgraded and am typing on, it browses just great now so I'll get a couple/few more years out of it I expect. I've fixed lot of stuff like cars and vacuums and appliances, I just put new resin in my water softener for $100 and new ones are at least 600 to buy. Using old stuff can be a pain, can save you lot too. Its free money to use on something else. But if you calculate the energy to make a complex appliance it is a lot more than a plastic bottle. I do recycle some things like metals, some of it is harder to do here have to drive a long way to turn in. That said I try to buy things in bulk with less packaging which also saves me trips to stores, like those bales of PT and TP. When moved here I blew insulation in the attic, lots of it, it was a fun project but made a difference.
APU takes 8 pcie lanes from your gpu, is that saying with CPU the 2nd M.2 will take away 8 lanes also? I'll have to check my prime x470 and see if it does that.
What motherboard is it? Most are dual channel so they work best with 2 sticks, however they can slow down with 16gb sticks anyway. A quad channel can work well with 4x8gb sticks.
Phones, why do I pay for a phone line if its not private? Why do I have to accept scam calls, how does caller ID not work in 2019 or is this 1950? I can't even get a dsl here because the local switch is ancient. But my android cell can't block a call because it does not have the tech to do so (1950 again?), I need an app. Its a total garbage system not made for the customer. At least when long distance was expensive you didn't get scam calls. Why is a computer allowed to make a call on a voice line if you don't have a prior relationship? Meanwhile the govt has so many other unimportant things to work on year after year, a million things that don't do a thing for me. So the phone companies hate me and the govt does nothing to regulate either...basically on something nearly everyone uses every day.
Oh that is nicer. Hey thanks I learned something lol, I didn't know you could run a hub off the PWM of the mobo. I have a hub in an older PC its just a 3 pin DC hi/low/off switch, yes like the 2nd one you listed.
They show a 4 pin to the mobo, that is what aura has, so it looks good but none of the reviews talk about aura. One says it was hairy on a gigabyte. The remote control models appear to have a sata connector for power the aura models the 4 pin. I'll be using them on an asus prime pro x470 and 2400G.
Looking for same, something just to try. I found some called airgoo on amazon for 15 with 2 strips that say aura. Note that place makes a few different versions some longer, some with remote controls, some magnetic, so check what one you are getting. I'm going to order them soon as I get done with a different project.
Scroll down it will show the different ones in a chart. Have no idea if they work.
Maybe use one of these: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6RP6RF8005
Its molex power but runs the PWM to the mobo for speed control, or so I read. If you use the same fans on it they all should run same rpm controlled with one mobo header. The Asus I just bought has 7 fan headers, so maybe I wont have this problem.
I blow them out with air, but I have a compressor and big blowgun so it works well. Never had a real issue other than sometimes right in front of a fan on a sink, maybe remove it and soap/water or glass cleaner or alcohol if mounted. That works well for sinks and cases and outer panels of things, getting any water product on or in electronics is not a good idea. Even wipes can work well as they don't leave fluid behind, but not on raw electronics. For electronics (mobo/cards) you can brush with alcohol but it should be removed and cleaned then blown off or dried in front of a fan/etc. For nasty things acetone can work but it can take writing off certain things and have to take more precautions working with it, is very flammable and makes more fumes. I only use it when something burns up and I'm trying to repair it and I've never used it on a computer. Acetone is commonly in old school nail polish remover. But if you get a soft brush and have a blowgun, you can clean lot of dust off without using anything. Or try some cans of air first.
I should add this will matter more with a AMD APU like a 2200g or 2400g, because they use system memory and its slow compared to gpu memory. In that case you want two sticks 3200 and faster if you can to help graphics speed. A normal AMD CPU it will not matter as much with a single stick only the cpu will take a little hit on speed and not your video card. Another APU issue is they can take up to 2gb memory for graphics, so then you are down to 6gb system with a 8gb total memory. It will run but that is getting minimal on memory. This happens if you use the APU for graphics and do not have a video card.
You are 100% correct, but its a light little fan and there should be some fudge room in the spec of the mobo or it should take a sustained draw to heat up/etc while the fan will be at speed very quickly. In reality a fan should be able to lock up and fail at full draw, and not injure the motherboard. If you run multiple fans odds are very small more than one could do that at same time. But yes if you run 90% of the rating/etc, you are risking a little more if a problem comes up, if in fact the mobo can't take more than 1A. I would assume its a rating for nominal use up to 1A continuous because fans run constantly but I can't verify that.
I have a diypc silence case that is setup much like that one. With stock 3 fans that came in this case the air flows steady out the back at half power in bios, not sure how much you need. This has top vent too but I have not opened it. I would try what is in the case, all fails just put some cheap case fans in and see then you would know if you need more and exactly what sizes to get. IMHO its better to run more slow case fans its quieter, and slow fans don't need to be high dollar if you have room for enough. Cooler fans are more important, or rgb if you want, or if your case is hot and you can't add more fans then you need more power.
Yes you should look at the amperage of the fan, if 0.3A then three of them would be 0.9A and right at edge of your 1A header, its best you can figure. IIRC the pwm splitter you have 3 wire after the first one so it only tracks speed of the first fan and does not confuse the motherboard, or so I read. Really a quiet case fan on the rear you can't hardly hear anyway, so run that one off the psu if you have to. My stock diypc fans are DC and bios shows half power in the control, move all 3 to full and its not much difference in noise still pretty quiet. I'd guess they are low rpm fans.
The voltage is how much power, the amperage is how much flows which is controlled my the fans resistance (much like a lightbulb controls amperage to achieve X watts rating in a house that is all 120v).
Good list, but you can get the Nvme intel 660 512 for about $60, the sata is not bad...just saying the 660 is 3x faster for about same cost. I would try for 2x8 memory if in budget. I'd try for a little better mobo around 100 maybe a tomahawk, but the asrock and 2x4gb will get the job done.
I asked and just installed my win10. I dload win10 from MS direct and saved it as an ISO you get the newest version that way. Then got rufus at their site, and made the bootable usb with it only takes a few minutes. If you have issue you can make usb again, or dload a new iso I read they can get corrupt and will not work. Then usb boot your new PC and win will install my 2400g did it in 10 min or less on a nvme waiting for me to answer questions. I did not format it, not sure what it did with that. Then I dload and install newest drivers and flashed the bios new, and not done much with it other than OC the memory to 3600.
Does this help: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/about-phanteks-eclipse-p400s-case-fans-top-cover.3094046/
I got a diypc silence just in that range, but the side window is not glass. Its a quiet case with front door and padding inside. Very nice case and nice features, it is wider to fit big coolers think it fits 140 fans in front even. I also wanted optical drive. They have other models. Make sure if you go big air cooler it fits, the part list should tell you.
No, good answer. I have 4 PC on here and since the router needs to be moved I may change it up. It might be better to set up a server for stuff. My router is end of house with PCs mostly, but other end is where I want 5ghz and one spot coverage is bad, so need to figure it out as I want to keep PCs wired. Of course if I move it then wifi coverage will change, or I can use the old router for an extender. And I don't think a usb in the router is large enough unless I can use an external drive in it, not sure on how good an idea that is. Problem is I don't want PCs running on a switch with the router way over there, maybe with GB it will be fine but seems like not the best setup.
I know about lazy, but I use clonezilla live usb it has worked well most of the time. You boot and clone old to new drive and pull the old drive. Either it boots or not, sometimes you have to run a utility to fix boot or something. If not you stick the old drive in and boot like you always have. Once it works if larger drive you go in windows and make your partition larger and you are done. Later you may have to fiddle with old drive and change ID to get it to use it because it may see it as same drive and not like it, then you can do whatever with that drive. Meanwhile your system runs just like it did yesterday on the new drive.
I see multiple listings for the same product at newegg all the time, its the in thing for retailers to do now. I dload the newest win10 at MS site into a local ISO, then get rufus and put a usb drive in and it will write the ISO to the usb drive bootable. Boot your new PC on that usb it will install the newest windows and will work, you can put your license in later its no big deal. This worked perfectly for me. Saw many reports of MS usb were old versions or usb did not work. If problem with the usb you can make another with rufus, if still problem ISO can be bad so download it again. I'd recommend you only get win10 from MS direct for a download. You can use MS to make a usb too, many say the rufus is better. Rufus writes the usb pretty fast. Rufus: https://rufus.ie/
For what its worth, now I have a bootable win usb I can also backup, and have the original ISO for this win version.
You can use any momentary switch pretty much, it connects only while you are pushing it, they usually return to start position when you let go. The switch should not ground to its mounting, it must have 2 wires and does not matter what way they are connected far as polarity. One is the + positive and other is - ground both to the mobo header just like a case switch. If the switch has a polarity use it, but should not matter. Ideally you can take the wires/harness off your faulty case switch (or any pc case) and plug into the mobo pins with them, if you don't use a PC switch with the pin plugs on it.
If you use the switch you listed it will be more complex, you have 2 pins for the power and more pins for the LED light which would also plug into the mobo in similar way. Use NO normally open, the momentary switch.
If you don't OC a lot any of the top air coolers should work. I went with a coolermaster hyper 612, its huge 6 pipe and quiet, can always put a faster or second fan on it, price was right, and didn't care about looks that much its just plain alum color. It is HUGE so be careful of height issues had to get a wider case to fit. I will OC but not high voltage. Read in some forums that heavy users were having pumps fail in soon as 2 years, that seemed to be most common issue for the AIOs. Since my PC is sometimes left on or doing idle things (browsing) and plan to have it way over 5yrs, I figure air was better for me. You also need to fit the radiator in your case, mine can so I could buy one for an upgrade if I change my mind. This cooler is quiet even on full speed, but is a silence case. Not had time to get a game going on it, its just a 2400g apu. The mid size air coolers can work well too but some make more noise the smaller they are. AIO has a cool factor too, its all in what you want/need.
Tiny PCs are cool, but if you want to upgrade it will you run into cooling issues, or the psu be too small? If you go am4 you can run a big cpu and gpu eventually, or better APU even would help keep things in check. You can also pick up SFF refurbs cheap if you don't have budget, but they have much less upgradablility. You have to find a single low profile gpu for SFF that will work for you, this one has a radeon 6450 I think around $50 that plays 1080 video just fine, but its only used for browsing pretty much and youtube video. There are refurb USFF also but I don't have one.
Processing, that is cool. I could stream but right now I don't even use the firestick that much. Though its used more in winter which is about over.
I could use it for backup, my external is about full.
You could try to check the voltage of your PSU (maybe its in bios) while you activate the led and see if it changes. Its hard to say because who knows what amps that keyboard draws and how much reserve your psu has, normally it should not cause any issue any usb should be good for 1A easy. You should be able to duplicate it with charging a phone or something on usb. Or it could be the keyboard is making noise in the power with poor circuitry, and affecting other 5v things. Most oem psu are just large enough, but most are high quality. If you put a large gpu/lot of accessories in you could be on edge of its capacity that can cause problems. Most oem have a mobo maker do their boards but yes they like to use proprietary plugs and odd stuff. If you change board you can have issue with win license, psu may not fit, etc, but then you would be standardized and more upgradeable depending on what cpu you have (except some even change the locations of mobo standoffs in the case). Or replace the oem mobo and/or get a different keyboard if it is only issue. So I would start by determining if its too much power draw on usb, or its just an incompatibility (or defective) problem with keyboard.
This rgb stuff is a mess, some is 3 pin some 4 pin and they are not compatible. Then you have to run controller of some kind. One place uses 4 pin and swaps pins so it wont work with other stuff. I'd look up the case and make sure what pinout is and what it works with. MSI says RGB is plugs JRGB1~2, JRAINBOW1 However:
JRGB1~2, JRAINBOW1: RGB LED connectors
The JRGB1/2 connectors allow you to connect the 5050 RGB LED strips 12V. The
JRAINBOW1 connector allows you to connect the WS2812B Individually Addressable
RGB LED strips 5V.
JRGB1~2, JRAINBOW1: RGB LED connectors
The JRGB1/2 connectors allow you to connect the 5050 RGB LED strips 12V. The
JRAINBOW1 connector allows you to connect the WS2812B Individually Addressable
RGB LED strips 5V.
So they are for two different things, 12v and addressable 5v. Jcorsair appears to be 3 pin rgb only for corsair type rgb.
I put the aura software on my new asus prime with win10 and it wont even run, so don't feel like the only one. Had to shut off in bios as it was on 27/7.
The 24 and 8 pin plugs are the power from the psu. The power switch to turn it on will usually be at the bottom of the board in the header for the front case panel controls. Usually a plug for it is with the mobo and marked for led and power/etc, you plug the case into that, then plug it into the mobo (some mobo may not have extra plug). To turn it on iirc you short the power/ground for the case power switch, but double check that I have not done it in long time.
Header is 13 on page 7.
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4K been out a while, that is half baked. Yeah I know, they do what they do. The reddit post says many boards will run 2.0 anyway, maybe they don't officially support like you said a feature is missing/etc.
I have old PCs that are used for browsing mostly, this C2Q sff works great with some cheap upgrades until I have to update the OS next year. Did put a ssd in it, but much faster and can take it out some day. Have 50 tabs open on it right now.
Depends on features but middle road motherboard I was looking at 450 tomahawk, carbon, legend and 470 I bought the prime pro, rog strix is more the taichi was not bad on sale for 150 range.