You're installing the cooler to be blowing straight to the back and not upwards right?
I see other builds using this cooler on an AM4 socket without a problem which is why I'm double checking.
This is by far the easiest way to figure out what hardware is holding back performance.
Make sure to display the individual CPU threads and not just the overall cpu usage.
Because if a game only uses a few of the cores and one is maxed out then you're at max for that game.
(i.e. League of Legends uses 1 core so my overall cpu usage is super low, but that one core is typically pegged when I'm playing)
You are correct. You'll use a 2nd 8 pin CPU power cable and only use 1 of the 4 pin plugs for that CPU_PWR2 plug. if your modular PSU has 2 CPU power plugs it should've came with the 2nd cable you need. (or I'm guessing its been lost?)
I think you can usually get by without the 2nd CPU power cable plugged in, but maybe someone else can confirm that.
definitely do NOT try to use a PCIe GPU power cable for this!
it simply means the mobo would support integrated graphics if they exist on the cpu.
But ONLY if they exist on the cpu. (looking at you 2200g)
SSD will help the pc feel faster overall for sure.
probably maxing out your RAM too which then it uses the hdd as backup which is currently slowing you down a lot more too.
I would recommend getting the SSD and another 4GB of ram if possible for a total of 8GB ram
The main thing that might come up would be needing to adjust boot order in BIOS in order to hit the right drive first.
oh, so you're missing the removable PCIe power cables for your PSU?
if thats what you mean, then yeah you're going to need to get a replacement for that. (mainly the bottom left cable that would plug into the VGA slot on the PSU and give you at least one more 6+2 pin)
you can use the non-modular 6+2 part, but you're still a bit short on what you need cuz it looks like the pigtail part is only a 6 pin.
you mean 7 of the 8 modular slots are used?
That PSU should have 3x 8pin (6+2), 3x 6pin PCIe power connections available.
You should only be needing to use 2 of the (6+2) pin connections.
This is the PSU right?
I would put the hybrid radiator in the back exhausting air out, and the CPU radiator on the top exhausting air out. that'll keep the inside of your case pretty cool. especially if you move the stock case fan to the front. This way both major heat sources are putting most of their heat straight out of the case.
sure putting these on the front and bottom gives both "fresh" air, but then you're putting a lot of warmth into the case and then eventually out of the case instead of just directly out of the case.
I would think the main idea is to have both bringing air into the case or both exhausting right out of the case. if one is intake and one exhaust, then the exhausting one is gonna be a bit warmer.
what are your goal uses for this desktop?
If general web browsing light office use then integrated graphics are just fine.
if you're building this to play games on it then you have to be on a VERY tight budget to only use integrated graphics. Otherwise you'll be using some sort of cheap graphics card which would still out perform integrated graphics pretty easily.
instead of speed say ping and then you've got the analogy going good. (speed is ambiguous)
when a company advertises a "speed" they mean bandwidth. (how much can come at once, not anything to do with ping)
30mpbs is plenty to play games on at the same time. however, youtube/netflix/etc tend to load as short bursts of medium to high bandwidth. this burst can cause short term lag and connection issues depending on the game and its timing sensitivity. I would have problems play rocket league while my roommate was just watching netflix and we were on a 100mbps connection. (yay for setting up QoS on the router which fixed the issue.)
having higher bandwidth can help avoid data "pileups" so its quite possible that the faster service is helping out some.
"full screen" yes, you have to tab out to interact with the 2nd screen. (it'll display chat and stuff just fine though)
"windowed borderless" though is available on a lot of games which makes it easier to quickly go between chat and the game.
Not sure I'm understanding your math there, but ok.
what model PSU do you have?
the BIOS option just gives windows 10 even the option of using it. you can just turn it off in windows 10 and if thats the problem, then you should be good.
It does at least possibly explain why shutting down doesn't fix the issue, but restarting does.
is quick start enabled in windows 10? might be an issue with that???
I would start with checking/disabling that option.
how many case fans do you have and at what positions?
I assume thats your cpu temp you're talking about hitting 94C?
This is one of the few times a 120/140mm AIO in the front might make sense to get. so that the cpu has a chance of getting fresh air. It looks like the cpu cooler and power supply fan are going to be fighting each other for air in a very confined space right now.
edit: is your PSU fan grabbing from top or from mobo side? either way there isn't a lot of room for the cpu cooler to get fresh air though.
THIS! so much this!
do NOT use a 4+4 from the power supply for a graphics card. They are not wired the same way.
what is your current PC hardware list? Or if you're trying to plan a new pc how much are you willing to spend?
you can change that mid rendering while watching your temps. I would guess keeping the rendering off 2-3 pairs should keep your temps in a nice area, but best thing is to just watch the temps when making those changes. :)
Its certainly gonna take a bit longer to render the video by only using like half the cores, but at least it can get done. Don't change the priority, just the affinity. threads 0 and 1 are on the same core, so I would turn off pairs for that application at a time. (like turn off "core 0" and "core 1" at the same time, then if you need it lower turn off 2 and 3 at the same time)
ninja edit: again, FOR SURE not a long term solution. but is probably gonna be faster than getting to your nearest store and installing a new cooler. (even though thats what you'll be wanting to do very soon)
If this is a one off type situation you could use task manager to change which cpu cores the rendering app can use. if you limit it to less cores then that'll naturally help out with temps.
Certainly not a great long term solution, but it is effective...
would probably be good to include what mic you're using. :)
Along with how you have it plugged into the pc now vs how it was plugged in to the other pc when it worked.
my main guess right now based on very little info is that its a setting in windows/discord on the new setup that needs adjusting. (or the driver thing depending on what mic it is and how its plugged in)
to OP: where are you checking and seeing 1600Mhz? Some places will show the actual Mhz instead of the effective Mhz.
Also, just use the XMP button in BIOS to get the rated speeds. :)
Its a very good point on the router being able to handle it.
I have a lower end gigabit AC router which caps out at 140mbps when I have QoS enabled.
For the longest time I thought my ISP was just being lame and not giving me the full 200mbps they promised, but its actually my router holding things back cuz of the QoS being on.
I know it sounds like a silly question, but did you move the video cable from the mobo to the graphics card output when you put the graphics card into the system?
the integrated graphics are almost always set to be disabled when it detects a video card plugged into a PCIe slot.
what router do you have? Is it seperate from the modem from the ISP?
kinda sounds like the router ports are only 10/100 instead of gigabit???
I also have one of these. love not worrying about my giant gpu putting pressure on the board.
plus, if you only have 1 gpu you can flip the top brace and have it basically clamp onto the gpu so the support can't slip around when moving the case. :)
my limited understanding is that the main thing isn't if it'll function or not, but that running in dual channel or at advertised XMP speeds is more of a gamble when not doing the "ideal" setup of a pair of sticks bought as a pair.
Depending on your usage this might be kinda important or entirely not noticeable if you end up in single channel mode.
If its a new build, sometimes you have to install the network drivers using a usb drive before they'll work. (I've had it go both ways)
If I have QoS enabled on my router my max speed is around 140-160, but if I disable QoS then I can hit the advertised 200 speed. So that can be another factor involved.
depends on the game...
if you're playing league of legend which only uses 1 core then you can probably record using the other 3 without a problem. if you're hoping for BF5 then you're gonna have a bad time.
along those lines, maybe there are some controller emulation/manipulation software available that might be able to effectively change the scrollwheel binding to something else? (just guessing at the possibility)
you'll need to be specific with the mobo model in order for anyone to help you.
you say in addition to ethernet...
So you want it in case you take it to a buddy's place for a wifi party?
How much you plan to use this wifi adapter would have an impact on suggestions. (or at least for me it would)
pagefile and hibernation file reserve a lot of space with default settings.
the pcpp wattage calculator is like the rated worst case scenario. meaning its generally a high estimate.
Since most decent power supplies start at the 550W area if I were you I'd feel very comfortable getting a quality 550W power supply for that build. (overclocking isn't going to suddenly draw double the rated power or anything like that)
if you plan to get a higher powered GPU at some point then maybe a 650W just for plenty of headroom, but the 550W is probably fine at that point too.
playing Overwatch on 1440p 144hz looks amazing and helps me not get upset when I lose cuz at least my screen looks fantastic! (I imagine the experience is even better if you're decent at the game and win. haha)
upper limit for nvidia GPUs lately is around 83C I think. (you'll get better auto boosting if it stays under 75C though.)
not sure what the upper limit on AMD CPUs is these days. probably between 95-105C.
I personally try to keep both of mine around 60-70C or lower when gaming.
Idle should be under 40C unless the GPU has a fan stop setting so its passive until 60C. (or if you live in a dessert without AC. lol)
After looking at your mobo manual, yes you are correct. I would use the M2P slot, which is the bottom one, and then make sure you're not trying to use Sata port 0. (which is numbered opposite of what I'm used to. just follow the mobo manual diagrams. pg28-30 have everything you need.)
I use MSI afterburner app to monitor temps and ram usage during games.
It's free and it also lets you set custom fan curves for the GPU if you want to keep it cooler than the default fan curve.
That SSD is an NVMe type which means PCIe when reading the manual and its talking about Sata vs PCIe M.2 drives. :)
I'm not too experienced with the RGB stuff, but the RAM speed part you'll want to find the XMP button in the BIOS and enable it. (sometimes AMD boards call it something else like "AMD memory profile" or "AMP".)
That is what reads the OC profile of your RAM and uses those parameters. (i.e. 3000Mhz in your case)
if the ports have colors those are the standard colors. :)
(sometimes they have several of them the same color if the mobo is trying to look cool. Looking at you my old MSI gaming 5 z97. haha)
I just wanted to note that when monitoring CPU usage while playing that you want to look at each core separately.
if you're pegging 1 core, then adding more cores won't help. If you're pegging all the cores, then most likely that game will use a few more cores efficiently.
If you only look at overall cpu usage then it can be deceptively low while still maxing out on a core. (looking at you League of Legends on my 8700k. LOL)
Sometimes the answer we seek is not the answer we truly need. :)
how many other wi-fi singals are in the area? (and which channels are they on?)
If you're on the same channel as your neighbor then that'll affect speeds.
If the power supply cable comes as a daisy chain then its ok to use. NOT a fire hazard if the manufacturer does it :)
However, if you have the option of using 2 separate cables from the power supply to the GPU then that is preferable as it does give a noticeable performance difference. (I think like 5%? I'll find the video I saw on it awhile back if needed)
also try a speedtest and see if that fluctuates speed a lot while running or if its mostly steady. (fluctuations indicate a shaky wifi connection)
I also like to use pingplotter app when having connection issues.
check for dust accumulation on the cooler too. dust is a blanket when its builds up.
If it used to keep it cool, then dust, old thermal paste, or dying fan are really the only things to check.
also look for any dust accumulation on the fins of the heat sink. a little bit of dust can REALLY mess up the cooler's performance.
(new thermal paste is a good thing to do too if it used to keep the cpu cool but no longer does as much)